Trip Reports

Mont Blanc Summit 26 June 2019

Aiguille Marbrees East Ridge
Trip Report

Written by Leader Jamie Holding, July 2019

A prompt start on Thursday saw Jenny, Jeremy and me take the Skyway to the Torino refuge, with a drop off through the Mont Blanc tunnel from Simon.

We were straight out onto the glacier and traversed the Petit Flambeau, before returning to the Torino for some rope work rehearsal.

First light at 5am next day and we were off to traverse the spectacular and technical Aiguille Entreves. A great rock ridge and what a way to acclimatise.

After a second night of Italian hospitality we opted for the East ridge of the Aiguille Marbrees, before a swift descent on the Skyway and well earned showers back at the comfort of the superb Hotel La Chaumiere.

With a weather window of opportunity, we took the Bellevue telepherique and Nid d’Aigle train, giving us a 2 hour walk to the Tete Rousse refuge. An early night was in order, with breakfast scheduled for 1.30am.

The darkness and the scramble up to the Gouter refuge beckoned, which we reached at first light. From here it was crampons all the way to the summit of Mont Blanc 4810m. A seven hour ascent, in relatively calm conditions. We even completed the descent to the Gouter refuge in good snow conditions.

An afternoon nap was followed by a great meal and a late evening storm. We awoke to a coating of fresh snow for the scramble descent, taking it carefully, and so back to Chamonix.

Well done to Jenny and Jeremy, for making the most of the opportunities the mountains presented.

Jamie

Summit video: https://vimeo.com/345871428

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