Trip Reports

K2 Base Camp and Ghondokoro La - 8 to 30 Jul '06

Trekking south from Concordia down the Vigne Glacier
Trip Report

Written by Leader Annette Dean, July 2006

On 21 July 2006 the first Jagged Globe K2 Base Camp and Ghondokoro LaTrek team successfully crossed the Ghondokoro La (5,585m), reaching the pass at sunrise as clouds lifted to reveal stunning views of K2 and surrounding 8,000m peaks.

The trekking season in the Karakoram began with a long period of snowy weather in the higher areas. Whilst many groups were unable to cross Ghondokoro La during this time, our team were able to make the gradual ascent up the Baltoro Glacier in enjoyable, cool walking conditions. We reached the mouth of the Baltoro Glacier, Paiju Camp, to be greeted with superb views of Trango Towers, the first peaks of the Baltoro.

Another cause for celebration as we approached the Baltoro Glacier at Badumal was Keith’s birthday (we won’t say how old!). As well as a specially baked and decorated cake, we celebrated with the porters who held a Balti song and dance in Keith’s honour. Unfortunately our team effort at singing was no match to the musical talents of our porters!

Ascending the glacier, the mountains cleared one by one – Masherbrum, Mustagh Tower, and views ahead of Gasherbrum IV and Broad Peak. Almost equally impressive were the countless glaciers feeding into the Baltoro, including the Mustagh Glacier and East Mustagh Pass. The steep icefall of this pass was crossed by Younghusband in 1887 using pony rope, turban, and waist cloth to descend. Few expeditions have repeated this amazing feat.

Our arrival at Concordia, at the base of K2, was undoubtedly a highlight. Our camp was surrounded by many of the world’s highest mountains: K2, Broad Peak, Chogolisa and the Gasherbrum peaks. We were able to watch climbers on both Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV from our camp, and visited K2 base camp where a number of expeditions were making summit attempts.

Perhaps the most unusual event of our time at Concordia was the arrival by Pakistan Army helicopter of a group of Americans from Dallas, Texas. They stayed only 15 minutes and spent most of their time talking with our team. Their passing comment to our group, that it was time they got “real jobs” caused some amusement!

From Concordia we continued up to Ali Camp, at the base of Ghondokoro La, and made the most of stable fine weather to make the crossing of the pass. Our team set off at midnight and reached the pass at sunrise. After obligatory congratulations and team photos, we made the steep descent of nearly 1,000m to the welcome site of our camp at Huespah. Crossing this physically and technically challenging pass was undoubtedly a great achievement by all.

The descent down the Hushe Valley provided a spectacular contrast to the stark, barren landscape of rock and ice on the Baltoro, with the welcoming sight and rich aroma of grass, wildflowers and juniper trees. These lush green valleys provide summer pastures for the sheep and cattle of Hushe Village. Our successful crossing of Ghondokoro La gave us time to explore the Hushe area, and we met hospitable friendly locals who offered us delicious fresh yoghurt, butter and bread. Some of our group even tried the traditional salty Balti Tea.

We were able to relax in Hushe Village, a welcome end to our journey, before our jeep ride back to Skardu and the return by road to Rawalpindi.

Congratulations to all the team members on this unforgettable journey.

Annette Dean, Expedition Leader « Previous report | »

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