Trip Reports

K2 Base Camp and Ghondokoro La - 6 - 27 Aug '06

Trekking south from Concordia down the Vigne Glacier
Trip Report

Written by Leader Bonny Masson, August 2006

‘A magical place that pulls you deeper into its heart’ – Alex
‘Thanks for an adventure’ – Ray
‘Pakistan – not for the faint-hearted’ – Shahid
‘If this is trekking then I’ll stick to peaks!’ (talking about having an easy time) – Steve

Mountaineering is about ups and downs, literally and emotionally. Pakistan and the K2 area has, as usual, provided an unforgettable rollercoaster of a trip for members of the 5 August trip to K2 and the Ghondokoro La. Sustained rainstorms meant there were no flights to Skardu, so we had to drive from Islamabad up the Karakorum Highway (KKH). This statement does not describe the tremendous experience this entails, travelling through the young ‘mobile mountains’, which frequently landslide over the road. We crossed over a number of recently bulldozed sections of landslide on this journey. Bridges had been washed out, which meant we had to cross riverbeds on foot in order to proceed and we frequently found other buses trapped on the other side. This caused a wonderful ‘intercultural incident’ as buses we had bargained with in order to proceed were taken by Spaniards who had crossed over as we returned for our bags. When asked, the Pakistani drivers said they were sorry but thought the Spaniards were us, as we all ‘look the same to them!’

As the branch road to Skardu was broken in several places, we took Jeeps and drove under Nanga Parbat up the wild, beautiful alpine valleys of the Astor Region. After a stay in the two rooms (men and women separate of course) of a tiny local inn at Chillam (complete with tiny wildlife!), we drove on tracks over the National Park of the Deosai Plains (highest point 4,000m) to arrive in Skardu after a 3-day journey and very little sleep. The tiredness and challenges were accepted in the spirit of adventure and brought the team members together. The same great attitude continued even when there was a break in the road to Askole, meaning another night with very little sleep.

Finally we were trekking deep into the K2 area and up the great Baltoro Glacier. Everyone was in high spirits and nothing could stop us! We decided that the trek could be no better - each day brought interesting and sustained walking, first on paths then on moraine fields lying over the ice of the mighty Baltoro Glacier. The total height gain was sometimes small each day but there were many very big hills of ice, especially during the first days on the glacier! Each day also brought better and more stunning vistas, from the Indus Valley and mountains at Skardu, to the Trango Towers, Masherbrum, and the wonderful glacial features on the Baltoro. Luckily overcast weather did not turn to rain and meant we were also spared the temperatures in the mid 30’C that one can often meet early on during this trek.

Then, as so often on this trip, we were lucky: we had three perfect days at Concordia with views of crystal clarity. K2, Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums looked close enough to touch. We stared and stared, by dawn’s soft light, the brilliance of the day, the ‘alpen glow’ of evening and the millions of stars and dense Milky Way of perfect nights. Most of the party were seasoned mountain travellers and all agreed that this ‘Throne Room of the Mountain Gods’ (Galen Rowell’s stunning photographic record of the area) was incomparably beautiful, dramatic and moving.

Unfortunately, one of our team, Paul, suffered from a non-trip nor mountain-related medical emergency during our rest day at Concordia. We were able to render emergency care and arrange a successful helicopter rescue. Everyone contributed in some way and again we became even closer as a group. Thanks to all the team members, local staff, some other trekkers and Dr David Hillebrandt (‘zinderbad’ the SAT phone!) for the their support. Paul is now well on the road to recovery.

After the emergency, we were pretty tired and as we had lost a day in travelling to Skardu only Rob visited K2 Base Camp itseld and the Gilkey Memorial as a day trip. Rob kindly brought a small stone back for Ray who had descended from Goro due to altitude problems. Many others went beyond Broad Peak Base Camp and were very happy with this shorter trip (still about 7 hours). A few others rested and enjoyed having Concordia to our party alone!

Developing lenticular clouds indicated that the beautiful weather was changing as we strolled up the ‘airport glacier’ to Ali Camp, below the Ghondokoro La. However, I was sure we would cross in time. It was a truly magical day with views of K2, Broad Peak, the six Gasherbrums, Masherbrum and the ethereal Chogolisa; Herman Buhl’s last mountain. Our excitement built during preparations, an early dinner and resting until midnight. We were all well-acclimatised by now and the team topped out on the La by 6a.m. after enjoying the dry-glacial approach and perfect snow conditions of the climb. Mark, who has climbed to the North Col of Everest, commented that the climb to the La is steeper than anything on the N. Col! [Though 1,500m lower – Ed]. Again we were lucky and the giants appeared through veils of gathering storm clouds, providing superb atmospheric shots for lots of cameras!

The descent to the green pastures and wild flower meadows of the Hushe Valley was a joyful shock to our senses, which had only feasted on the dramatic ice and rock architecture of the Baltoro for over a week. Tired but feeling the ‘heavy air’ of lower reaches, we celebrated with our superb staff and amazing porters. The porters thought drumming, clapping, singing and dancing away the night was the way to relax after carrying 25kg and their personal stuff all day! On the night of our party, the sky was again filled with stars at the lovely camp of Saitcho. Stars also appeared on the dance floor. The male members of our team admired and were envious and the female members were open-mouthed as our handsome porters danced with pride, dignity and grace. Rob also astounded with his particular brand of expressionism, while Bonny and Porter Sirdar Mohammed Hussain were accorded the accolade of notes of money being tucked into their hats by the porters when each of us danced! (My money was given to the drummers). This night and many others, the sight and sound of these special and hardy men unreservedly rejoicing in song brought tears to many eyes. It’s a sound that will always take us back to this place. (I have a recording!)

There were too many other very special experiences to recount here. Suffice to say that we grew closer and closer as a group and shared ‘a trip of a lifetime’.

Zinderbad Pakistan! Zinderbad our wonderful group!

‘When’s the sequel, Bonny? We want to sign up!’ (On the card kindly given to me by all team members at the end).

Bonny Masson, K2 and the Ghondokoro La Trek Leader « | »

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