Trip Reports

Stok Kangri - 29 Jul to 14 Aug '11

Stok Kangri summit 11 August 2011
Trip Report

Written by Leader Robert Smith, August 2011

It was a happy bunch of twelve climbers who parted ways at Heathrow Airport, all having gained new heights in the Indian Himalaya. Stok Kangri is a fantastic peak, with a largely unspoilt trek through valleys with great wildlife, leading to Base Camp at the foot of India’s most popular trekking peak.

Day 1-2
The team met at Heathrow apart from Jason who we met the following day in New Delhi. Following an overnight flight it was good to stretch our legs after a few hours rest in the very comfortable surroundings of Claridges Hotel. A walk from the hotel to the impressive India Gate, down Rajpath past the Government Secretariat Buildings to the Rashtrapati Bhavan (President’s House) provided a good introduction to New Delhi. An entertaining tuk-tuk journey back from Connaught Place finished our first day in India.

Day 3
An early morning flight to Leh the next day set us at over 3000m, a new height record for some already! We spent two days in Leh and the local area acclimatising to the altitude and taking in the atmosphere of our surroundings. Ladakh is known as little Tibet for good reason. The combination of a high arid landscape and tranquil Buddhist monasteries can seem a world away from the chaos and greenery of Delhi.

Day 4-5
Leh Palace and Tsemo Fort were visited, with many a stop on the steep zig zags to the top! Kit checks were made in the afternoon, and some of the group tested their bartering skills in the local markets afterwards. On our second day in Leh we again explored the local area, walking for four hours in the morning, followed by a demonstration of the Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) back at the hotel, with Dom gamely volunteering to get inside. Kit preparation and final purchases filled the rest of the day.

Day 6
Leaving Leh, we stopped at Thiksey Monastery for a visit and were fortunate to be there for worship time, a memorable experience far removed from our Western culture. The trek started proper at Martselang (3,340m), and two hours later we had our first camp of the trip at Sumdo (3,800m). Nir, our Sirdar, was impressed with the pace of the group which was to bode well for the rest of the trip.

Day 7
Early morning starts to avoid the hot daytime temperatures were quickly adopted and our support team demonstrated their efficiency in packing up camp and getting on the move. Shang Phu was reached after five and a half hours of pleasant valley walking, gradually rising to 4,365m for what was agreed by many to be the most pleasant camp site of the trip. However, the following morning it was clear how quickly we had reached a remote area, as a wolf had been lurking around the campsite overnight and killed two sheep. In fact Richard S. is convinced he glimpsed it when he popped out of his tent during the night. Not your everyday camping experience!

Day 8
The crossing of the Shang La at 4,960m is considered a hard day of the trip and the team were not disappointed! A long day ended in a fierce wind storm which alternately whipped us with dust and lashed us with rain. We turned back and found shelter in some Shepherd huts before our planned campsite at Gangpoche. This turned out to be one of the most memorable experiences of the trip, as complete strangers literally threw open their doors for us and the group soon found themselves nestled among their simple dwellings. As eyes adjusted to low light levels, details of how simply people can live became apparent. There were no modern trappings here, dried dung the only fuel source and a broken radio the only electrical item to be found. We later learned these hardy men were employed by the Government to raise sheep and donkeys in these summer pastures. After camping outside their stone huts at 4,600m we departed the following morning, leaving them some spare clothing and food, in return for their remarkable openness.

Day 9
Better weather followed, and after crossing our second high pass of Matho La at 4,965m we descended to Smankarmo, joining the ‘standard’ route from Stok. The campsite was very busy and everyone agreed we had chosen a much better and less travelled approach. Scenery and wildlife had been appreciated by all. Paul had kept us informed along the way of bird sightings which had included the striking Lammergeyer, Peregrine Falcons, Choughs, and Black Redstarts among others. Not to mention the marmot spotting on the higher ground.

Day 10
A straightforward two hours led us to Base Camp, with the weather turning just before arrival needing a stop to don Waterproofs. The weather soon worsened and we were glad of the shelter in the communal tent with warm tea as we waited for our mules to catch us up. The afternoon degenerated into an impressive thunder and lightening storm dumping hailstones on Base Camp and fresh snow on the higher mountain. The trek phase was over and we were digging in for the mountain phase.

Day 11
The following day we climbed up to the old Advanced Base Camp at 5,350m making good time. Judith sat the day out not feeling well and Calum returned to Base Camp from a high point on the ridge above camp. Richard B. returned from Advanced Base Camp with a headache while the rest of the group decided to continue onto the glacier and some snow slopes suitable for ice axe and crampon skills. The unusually hot weather had melted lower snow patches around Base Camp and the now recent snowfall had meant axe and crampon skills were high on the training agenda. So it happened the group found themselves running through winter skills at 5,400m! Not quite your usual day out in Scotland. Nevertheless a valuable refresher or new skills for some was gamefully undertaken by all. I convinced everyone the hard work at that altitude would make summit day easier and psychologically we now had the benefit of covering a good portion of the route and seeing a lot more. Knowledge dispels fear and all that. We returned to camp before the now expected afternoon storm, which arrived on cue. Later that night there was more bad weather with snowfall and we were glad to be able to roll over and go back to sleep as neighbouring tents could be heard rustling into action for a summit attempt.

Day 12-13
As our rest day progressed the weather became more stable. Playing cards and yatzee passed time for some, while others preferred to relax or read books. After dinner in the evening everyone turned in for some rest and sleep if possible, before our midnight breakfast.

The cooking had been great but unfortunately the midnight breakfast porridge tasted distinctly of mothballs. Not sure the recipe will become a success! Some stoically finished their bowls likely influenced by my ’food is fuel’ lectures, whilst others opted for museli. With our 0100 departure in still weather and clear skies, the day ahead looked very promising and much better than the two previous nights. ‘Slowly slowly catch the monkey’ was the new mantra as the hours passed, crampons biting in firm snow, gaining valuable height until there was a glimmer of dawn on the eastern horizon. A beautiful sunrise revealed Stok Kangri still seemingly a long way above us, but within reach. The final summit ridge provided interesting scrambling with loose rock in places calling for some short roping. At 0900 after eight hours of hard work a happy band of nine climbers and one Sherpa marvelled at the thousands of prayer flags fluttering in the wind at the summit of Stok Kangri. Richard B had turned around at 5,870m having given it his all. A fine effort by everyone. We spent an hour on the summit in fine weather with good views, some cloud building in places. Four hours of descent later a very tired group reached Base Camp. The cook staff had been great and met us at ABC with hot juice, some of them making the journey in flip flops!

Day 14
Rested and content, our team packed up and turned their backs to Stok Kangri. The trek down the valley to Stok passes through impressive rock formations and we were treated to views of a large flock of Blue Sheep near Smankarmo. These animals are incredibly agile and scamper up, down and across rock faces we would all be climbing in full climbing equipment! Paul and I spent some time trying to get close up pictures only to catch up with the rest of the group, who had a Blue Sheep standing quietly within five metres of them. The previously crowded camp a Smankarmo was now completely empty and seemed like a different place. A few hours later and several hundred metres lower, we were back amongst the greenery of vegetation and enjoyed the cool breeze from the river as it ran beside us. Lunch at Stok was followed by a van ride back to Leh. Welcome showers and celebratory beers followed.

Day 15
Another early start for our morning flight out of Leh. Those lucky enough to get window seats had great views of the mountains and glaciers. We arrived back to the comfort of Claridges Hotel and spent the rest of the day relaxing before an evening trip to Connaught Place for dinner in the old world charm of the United Coffee House.

Day 16-17
A day trip to Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal taken by most of the group rounded off the trip, before flying home to London. The Stok Kangri trip had been an enjoyable, successful and memorable venture.

Robert Smith, Expedition Leader « | »

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