Trip Reports

Mera and Island Peak - 16 Oct to 14 Nov '15

Written by Leader Ed Chard, November 2015

Our Autumn Mera and Island Peak Expedition team has returned from Nepal. Leader and Jagged Globe Head of Operations, Ed writes ëThe trip was fraught with poor weather and unseasonable heavy snow fall. We started very well with a fit trekking team on the first week. We took our first choice route that goes south from Lukla, over the Pangom La and into the Hinku Valley in 3 days. 3 more days saw us at a rest day at Panch Pokarri and acclimatising well at 4300m. We descended over some snowy and icy steps the following day to Khote where a warm lodge fire and chocolate resupplies awaited. We then moved north to pick up the trail to Tangnag and another rest day. We spent the day gaining height so we could ëclimb high and sleep lowí and practicing our fixed rope skillsí.

ëOur base camp was at Khare at 5000m; as we moved up the following day we started to get reports of a weather change. As forecasted, the clouds moved in and we were hit by several snow storms. The glaciers were covered in a thick crevasse hiding blanket of fresh snow. We feared not only for ourselves but also our porters and Sherpas. We decided to wait it out for a day but that bought further snow and increasing high winds. Thoughts turned to wind slab formation and increased avalanche risk, we couldnít go on. A tough decision had to be made so we turned away from not only summiting Mera Peak but also from not continuing in the Honku Valley and up to Island Peak. The following day we had reports of multiple rescues from stranded parties having made the decision to go oní.

ëWe attempted to move quickly around back into the Khumbu Valley to climb Island Peak but were slowed again by more snow. The team was very disappointed but we have all lived to climb another day. We did end the trip with views of Ama Dablam and Everest and have all gained some valuable mountaineering experience. We were all impressed with how Nepal is getting back on its feet, there is lots of rebuilding happening and the natural resilience of the Nepali people is nationally evidentí.

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