Trip Reports

Mexican Volcanoes - November '15

High on Orizaba, November 2015
Trip Report

Written by Leader Deborah Laugharne, November 2015

Success in Mexico! After leaving a wet and windy UK a happy team met at the Hotel Maria Cristina, in Mexico City. After journeys of varying lengths to Mexico we enjoyed a morning of site seeing at Teotuhuacan Pyramids. Unfortunately it was a bit drizzly so the views were not quite as impressive as hoped but it gave clients time to chat and get to know each other before a Mexican feast for lunch.

Our first aim was to acclimatize whilst spending two days on Nevado de Tolluca. Both peaks served their purpose well with Eagles Peak being short and steep and only a five hour day, followed by Friars Peak a longer day requiring a bit more stamina but less technicality. Everybody summited both Peaks enjoying clear views of the crater and lakes below. 11/11 on the summit.

The team were in good spirits and feeling good, we were experiencing some busy weather systems but so far the timings were on our side. We drove towards Itza to prepare for our next climb.

Before we started our ascent to high camp on Itza we were treated to views of Popa and Orizaba in the distance. This was exciting for everyone as we could see our overall objective. The walk to high camp took four hours in warm conditions. Everyone moved steadily carrying their personal kit in their rucksacks whilst porters carried the tents and the supplies.

After hot drinks at camp the weather started to deteriorate so people retired to their tents to relax whilst dinner was prepared. After a blustery few hours the weather calmed down and we enjoyed a quiet evening to sleep.

We were up at 0200 for a 0300 departure in conditions that had much improved. The initial scramble from camp to the ëKneesí on Itza was hard work and as we reached the ridge we were met by more windy conditions. The visibility was pretty poor until we hit the final summit ridge and we were rewarded with stunning views for five minutes. Many photos were taken and congratulatory hugs given before the long descent. Some reached the summit at just before 1000 with others at 1030, the whole summit team waited despite quite chilly conditions to have a team picture and say well done to each other on the top. 10/11 on the summit.

The food throughout the trip was excellent but one outstanding place was the Spanish restaurant in Amecameca, we had a few meals there but the post summit meal was very much appreciated.

Before preparing to climb Orizaba, our last mountain we spent a relaxing afternoon and following morning in Puebla. The Hotel Colonial was superb! it was also in the perfect position for exploring the city. Feeling refreshed and well fed we prepared for the final summit.

As it was a public holiday weekend we decided to stay in Osoís lodge rather than the mountain hut below Orizaba. As a retired guide Oso understands well what exactly climbers want! Great food, comfy clean bunks and lots of hot water and even towels.

The steady 1Ω hour plod up to high camp went well with everyone feeling excited on arrival and with no altitude problems in the team. The weather was good and we went to bed at 1800 feeling very optimistic.

At 0200 the weather was again great! After breakfast and lots of hot drinks we set off for the scramble to meet the glacier. After 3 hours of quite hard work we were ready to put on crampons and rope up.

The sun was rising to our left and projecting the outline of Orizaba onto the cloud. Despite struggling with big gloves etc many photos were taken, there was no rush to complete this climb.

Ricardo, Catriona and Michael reached the summit very quickly at 0800 so they wished us well as they descended, waving and stopping for a photo. As I reached the summit with Diana and Steve on the final rope we were greeted with a lovely welcome from the other two rope teams. The view was spectacularly clear! After many photos, vidoes, hugs and congratulations, we descended together. 8/11 on the summit.

What a wonderful two week long trip, many thanks!

Debbie Laugharne, Expedition Leader « | »

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