Trip Reports

Mera and Island Peak - 14 Apr to 13 May '17

Written by Leader Jamie Holding, May 2017

On the evening of April 15 the combined groups for Mera and Island Peaks gathered in Kathmandu, from all corners of the globe. Individuals' mountain and high altitude experience ranged from a telepherique ride up the Aiguille du Midi 3842m to an ascent of Everest itself 8848m. Ahead lay many steps to the Mera La, acclimatisation and a chance of climbing Mera Peak 6461m.

The next morning at 5am, an uncanny, Swiss-like, machine of transport efficiency whisked us away and airborne to Lukla and an astonishing 10am getaway. Nineteen of us flown in, with all our bags, united with our Sherpa team of Zedan, Pemba, Gyan and our Sirdar Nima Temba, a cook team led by Arjun and a great gang of porters, all underway on a twelve day trek to Mera La base camp.

Sharing leadership duties with Kerry, benefiting from Nima's vast experience, we settled into the rhythm of trekking days. Progressing "bistari, bistari" (slowly, slowly) we camped alongside lodges in small villages, gradually preparing physically and mentally for the greater challenges ahead.

On day seven we actively rested at Tagnag, with a 3h ascent to break the 500m barrier, gladly re-warming after snow flurries, by the lodge's stove, which required a little collective 'wood tax' to fire it up. A few altitude 'personal bests' for some team members, with significantly more to come.

Khare, the last settlement before the snowy crossing to Mera La base camp, provided us with a place for fixed rope training (up, across and down, repeated till familiar) and another day of active rest, up to 5350m. A sermon each evening from the pocket Guide to mountain climbing became the pattern, reminding the assembled team of how success is measured on mountains and the step by step approach required for physical and mental efficiency. Chinese philosopher Lao Tzu ("A journey of a thousand miles begins with one step") would have approved of our preparations, in readiness should the mountain present us with an opportunity. Just two more days needed to gain high camp and maybe a summit chance.

A weather pattern also seem established. Atmospheric pressure was steady, winds were relatively light, yet each clear morning gave way to afternoon snow showers. Mera high camp, on rocky platforms at 5800m, resembled Camp 1 on Ama Dablam. We settled down after a dal bhat dinner to await our chance, on schedule for a day 14 summit bid and a 2am start.

Mera Peak is the highest of Nepal's so called trekking peaks but we were no longer trekkers. The trekking had ceased on the glacier below Mera La. We were now aspiring Himalayan mountaineers, testing the limits for many of the group. Discomfort zones were getting stretched, new altitude pb's beckoned. Poorly Fiona returned to Khare to wait and recover, Kirsty too had to wait at high camp. Other mountains will give them a chance another time.

The Mera Peak – Amphu Labsta – Island Peak five were first away, father and son pairs, Steve and Alex, Tim and Justin, plus Graeme, led by Gyan Tamang. Onto the glacier, roped together, into the night and a biting breeze. Zedan followed with Darren, UK Tom and Norwegian Emil. Somewhere close behind us in the darkness were Kerry, Nima and Pemba, with Emma, US Tom, Helen, Glyn, Rebecca, Nigel and David.

A calming dawn and the warming sun saw summit moments for Tim, Justin, Alex, Steve, Graeme, Darren, UK Tom, Emil, Rebecca, Glyn and Helen. Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Kanchenjunga looked on from far heights. For Kerry's Mera Peak team, I really do hope the mountain gave them lessons that will help them to their next summit – whatever and wherever it may be.

Descending quickly to the relative respite of Mera La, Kerry turned left with the Mera team, back tracking to Khare, whilst I turned right with the MIPS crew, bound for the remote Hunku valley. Their final test was to cross the Zatwra La, fortunately with only a thin icing of fresh snow. We had a crux crossing of the Amphu Labsta to negotiate, before we could begin to consider Island Peak.

The upper Hunku valley was as wonderfully remote as we had anticipated, with Everest looming, head and shoulders above all else. Snow fell as we reached a base camp below the 5800m pass, with a technical, fixed rope ascent and descent in prospect. A day's inactive rest allowed everyone to recover, ready for the rigours above. A fine dawn and our porter gang showed the way, carefully employing the ropes to safeguard their passing, yet demanding their courage and stamina. We followed, awed by the raw challenge and our porters prowess. With the crossing achieved, we knew we would complete the circuit to Lukla, down the Imja and Khumbu valleys. Next though, perhaps a chance of Island Peak 6189m.

With the pattern for afternoon snowfalls persisting, we knew Island Peak high camp would be above the snowline, meaning tricky, snow covered, rocky scrambling to gain the glacier. Graciously Tim and Graeme stood down, to wait for us in Dingboche. Here they enjoyed a morning's stroll to 5000m, achieving 'rock star' status amongst the slow moving, acclimatising trekkers. For our intrepid duo, after twelve days of the high life, living above 5000m, it really was a 'walk in the park'.

Snow fall petered out as we contemplated a 2am start and stars emerged to lure us upwards. "Let's give it a go." A steady scramble brought us to 'crampon point', dawn and brightening optimism. Weaving through gaping chasms, clambering up a laddered ice step, we emerged below the final headwall. Web like fixed lines ran upwards, with a bergschrund spanned by a 4m ladder. The fifty degree snow and ice slopes were well stepped to the summit ridge and Imja Tse – Island Peak was momentarily beneath our feet. Sliding down the lines was hindered only by uphill traffic, labouring just as we had, their eyes like saucers, mouths gasping like fish. The morning sun had quickly burned the snow from the rocks and we were soon back at high camp for juice, soup, a quick repack and onwards down to Dolban camp. The next morning we reunited with the 'rock stars' in Dingboche, where Gyan tucked into a well-earned piece of gateau at the Himalayan Bakery.

At Pangboche we knew we had a couple of days in hand for a slow descent of the Khumbu. Time to take in the ambience of Tengboche monastery and the legendary camp ground at Sherwi Kangba, Namche. The last couple of evenings brought temporary respite and refreshements at Namche's Irish Bar and Phakding's Reggae Bar and we swept into Lukla in a real downpour. Evening presentations were made to all our support team and our porter gang finally had a beer they had been dreaming of for days.

The drone of aircraft, early next morning, signalled our exit to Kathmandu. The Mera Peak – Amphu Labsta – Island Peak circuit completed in a 25 days. News reached us that the very human 'Swiss Machine' Ueli Steck had died in the Western Cwm of Everest on April 30. His achievements and daring will remain the stuff of legend. As we had striven to take steps towards Mera and Isalnd Peaks, he had been striving to take steps towards a mythical solo traverse of Everest and Lhotse. Whoever we may be, whatever our endeavours, we can strive to elevate ourselves by daring to take the next step.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9aUnNjzfkME

Jamie

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