Trip Reports

Alpine Techniques - 3 Aug to 10 Aug '19

Written by Leader, August 2019

Directed by Mountain Guide Jim Kerr, Jez, Flavia and Kit laid the foundations for leading their ascents in the latter half of the week, with training days on rock, multi-pitch climbs, glacier travel and crevasse rescue. 

Beginning the week at Chamonix's local crag, the Gaillands, they transferred the skills up high on the Brevent, with an ascent of Hotel California, graded D+ 5a. A contemporary classic indeed. Swift access to the Aiguille du Midi provided a glacier training venue, concluded with the Arete Laurence and a lung challenging ascent of the Midi return ridge.

Rifugio Torino 3375m must have the easiest access of any high alpine refuge, whisked up there on the revolving Skyway above Courmayeur. With Wednesday's rain it made for a dry hut approach, where we discussed strategies and tactics for Alpine ascents, followed up by dry runs of rope work, in readiness for the varied techniques required to traverse the Aiguille Entreves 3604m. 

Thursday dawned fine, with a good re-freeze, allowing Jez and Kit to lead their rope teams to the Col d'Entreves, reassured by ticking off features identified from the guidebook and map. The South West ridge begins with a scramble, moving together on a shortened rope, with plentiful rock spikes offering protection. A short struggle up a chimney pitch reveals the knife edge continuation to the summit and the final crux corner pitch, graded 5b.

Getting to grips with alpine techniques requires judgement of varied terrain and the adoption of appropriate rope work, both in ascent and descent. Kit and Flavia were well rehearsed for the lowering and abseiling descent of the North East ridge. A final 25m abseil landed us on a shoulder of the glacier, where our transition to glacier travel was protected by the judicious use of an ice screw or two. Back at the Torino we re-hydrated and reviewed the day's learning.

A traverse of the Aiguille Marbrees 3535m, ascending the East ridge, descending the South ridge, provided us all with suitably challenging terrain to further practice a range of techniques. Jez led Jim, whilst Kit and Flavia alternated leads, with efficiency and flow beginning to emerge.

All our climbers enhanced their awareness and competence. Returning to Hotel La Chaumiere (where you check-out when the course concludes but you'd rather not leave) we drew the course to conclusion, "you can check out appropriate climbs but some you'd rather not lead."

Jamie (Le Petit Guide) with acknowledgement to The Eagles and Hotel California


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