Trip Reports

Mont Blanc Extension - 25 to 27 August '19

Anthony leads down Dome du Gouter
Trip Report

Written by Leader Jamie Holding, August 2019

A Mont Blanc extension to a week’s Alpine climbing is a great way to conclude an alpine adventure. Climbers arrive in Chamonix well prepared and sufficiently acclimatised for the challenge.

Anthony, James and Nick had enjoyed a successful week in Arolla, culminating in the Pigne d’Arolla 3796m. Victoria had climbed a couple of 4000ers in Saas. With a promising forecast we knew Mont Blanc awaited.

Anthony and I had climbed Mont Blanc in August 2017. Our summit day was testing, with cloud and snow showers obscuring the view and filling in the track. This time was going to be different, especially as Anthony was accompanied by his son James.

We enjoyed a simple ascent to the Tete Rousse refuge 3170m and a check of the Grand Couloir indicated conditions on the mountain were favourable.

With a clear sky overnight, we were away on the ascent soon after 5am. The challenge ahead broke down into three stages, the scrambling ascent to the Gouter refuge 3815m, the ascent passed the Dome du Gouter to the emergency Vallot refuge 4362m and the finale of the Bosses ridge to the summit at 4810m. Each section would take around two hours and the descent was scheduled for the Gouter refuge, allowing for an early morning return and crossing of the Grand Couloir.

Mountain Guide Kevin O’Neill led Nick and Victoria, reaching the Vallot refuge. For Nick the Bosses ridge was a step too far, this time. For both of them their nine day alpine odyssey had taught them plenty and doubtless they will return.

For Anthony and James, dad and lad, it was an emotional moment, strolling the final steps to the summit, side by side. Anthony has the Ultra Tour Monte Rosa challenge coming up next week and could hardly be better acclimatised. James will soon return to studies at university, having stepped into the world of climbing and mountaineering. The summit horizon from Mont Blanc is symbolic of the huge potential of rewarding challenges that the future holds for them both and this time we could see it clearly!

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