Trip Reports

Ausangate 2024

Climb Ausangate Peru, Damian Vargas, Jun 2024 12
Trip Report

Written by Team Member Damian Aurelio Vargas (Damian), June 2024

Our maiden Ausangate expedition travelled to southern Peru on 18 May and spent a little over two weeks in the Cordillera Vilcanota. During their time in the mountains the weather was very good, but unfortunately they were unable to reach the summit of Ausangate, despite a good effort and getting as high as c6000m. The conditions on the mountain mean there is now a difficult section of rock on the route, which was time consuming to overcome (despite fixing this section the previous day). Overall, there was more mixed climbing – about 200m of it – to get up onto the higher glacier. Once they’d reached this, fresh snow that was 60 – 70cm deep presented another challenge. Concerned about time, the decision was made to descend, rather than pushing on to the summit and risking coming down in the dark. The following day the team descended to base camp and continued with the itinerary, visiting the famous ‘Rainbow Mountain’ before returning to Cusco and onwards to Lima.


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