Trip Reports

Huascaran - 8 Jul to 2 Aug '05

Written by Leader, August 2005

Now on their way home, the first Huascaran team have every right to congratulate themseves for completing a very successful expedition. After completing the Santa Cruz trek, the team moved on to Pisco. An earlier than usual start from camp 1 enabled all of us to reach the summit of Pisco Oeste (5,752m) via a slightly more technical route than expected, due to the changes in the glacier. From the summit, fantastic views of the Blanca and an awe-inspiring view of Huascaran only added inspiration to the motivated team. With the news that Huascaran South was not a feasible option, the team focussed their attention on the slightly lower, but steeper Huascaran North, which towers more than 3000m above Musho.

The ascent of Huascaran was taken very seriously by all the team, who worked in harmony with our local guides and porters. The passage from camp 1 to camp 2 through the Garganta saw the group working effectively as they moved quickly through a variety of terrain, from vertical sections of ice to delicate snow bridges. With excellent weather, camp 2 was established and an early dinner taken as everyone prepared themselves for a 2am departure. Despite some members of the team feeling the effects of the altitude, everyone engaged themselves to move from camp promptly into three roped teams. With considerable effort being made on some earlier than expected technical sections and a sneaky false summit, every team member reached the top of Huascaran North (6,665m), tired but elated. All the hard work was rewarded by awe-inspiring views and superb weather.

After a careful descent and another early start through the Garganta, spirits were high as each team member reflected on their success. Well done to Catherine Billson, Lorenzo Curci, Doctor Chris Darby, Chris (Wiz) Macklin, Hugo Sanders and Sam Waley-Cohen. Special thanks must also go to our local guides and support team and to the oracle, Skip, who made this expedition so special.

Adele Pennington, expedition leader« Previous report | Next report »

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