Trip Reports

Mexican Volcanoes - 15 Nov to 1 Dec '07

Reaching the crater rim on Orizaba
Trip Report

Written by Leader Ian Barker, December 2007

From the halls of Moctezuma to the slopes of Orizaba, enough food to sink a battle ship and all topped off with a large dollop of pre-hispanic history and culture, the Jagged Globe Mexico Volcanoes expedition was a great success. The group climbed 4 summits and 9 team members reached the summit of Orizaba – Mexico’s highest mountain.

First class acclimatisation was achieved in the picturesque area of Nevado de Toluca, famed for its emerald volcanic lake and its two scrambly peaks (Frior’s Peak and Eagle’s Peak – 4,691m). Both these peaks made for 2 exciting days out. In the evening we retreated to our palatial mountain lodge and some excellent food.

On then to the attractive, extinct volcano of Iztaccihuatl that sits next to the mighty smoking giant Popcatepetl. Izta is no push-over – a pre-dawn start gave us the gift of a spectacular mountain sunrise as we scambled over snow-covered rocks towards Izta’s undulating summit ridge. The moon gave way to the first light of the sun that picked out in perfect silhouette the majestic cone of Orizaba to the west.

On reaching 5,000m and the subsidiary summit known as the knees, the majority of the group decided to call it a day and keep their powder dry for Orizaba. Three team members (Sharon, Richard and Ruairidh), accompanied by expedition leader Ian Barker and local guide Ruben, continued for another 2.5hrs to reach the summit in almost perfect conditions.

After a much deserved rest day in the small market town of Ameceameca at the foot of the volcanoes, the team set out for our main objective – the dramatic cone of Orizaba (5,746m). The 26 November saw us in our high camp on the side of the volcano, but things didn’t look good – it had been snowing and hailing for the last 6 hours and the wind could be heard racing over the ridges above the camp. At our 3am breakfast, things still stood in the balance, but as we reached the glacier the light was growing in the west and with sunrise came an improvement in the weather. We roped up in teams of 3 and set off up the steepening slope in excellent snow conditions. All members were moving well despite a strong wind and cold temperatures. 09.20 saw the first team standing on the sun-drenched, wind –lashed summit – the rest of the ropes arriving over the next 30 mins. The Jagged Globe team was the only team to summit that day and as we descended the mountain, the cloud moved in shrouding the peak in mist – the mountain gods had really smiled on us that day!

Ian Barker, Expedition Leader« | »

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