Trip Reports

Huascaran - 21 Jun to 17 Jul '08

In the icefall on Huascaran
Trip Report

Written by Leader Mic Rofe, July 2008

For the second year in a row our Jagged Globe team summited on Huascaran’s South Peak. Though the day lacked views it still left a memorable impression and we had so many images of the Cordillera Blanca to savour from our acclimatization trek on the Santa Cruz Trail and climbing Pisco, that one day in the clouds hardly mattered. Standing proudly in their whiteout summit shots were Steve and Stephan, Tony and Mike, Martin and Laura with local guides; Damian, Saul, Augenio and porter, Julgencio.

Start as you intend to continue: so a round of Pisco Sours it was at our first dinner in Lima. The following morning we headed by bus north, initially along the barren sandy coast and then through increasingly fertile valleys to pass over 4,000m and drop to Huaraz at 3,000m. Our passage was delayed considerably through a mix-up with permits, which meant a taxi ride to pass one police checkpoint. The first of many Peruvian taxi experiences - a fantastic way to see the countryside and interact with the locals and this leader strongly advocates their use at every opportunity – RAIN, hail or shine! Though it never rains in Huaraz according to Mike our local guide...

In Huaraz we instigated three fall back conversation themes; interpreting the itinerary, inappropriateness of Tikka torches, and whether one axe would be sufficient to climb Huascaran. As it turned out all were quite adequate in supporting our Summit bids...

The first third of our expedition took us around the Santa Cruz Trek through three beautiful valleys and over two stunning high passes to give us a very sound and gradual acclimatisation. Every now and then we had a feeling of being in Scotland but then the unique vegetation or scale of the peaks would bring us back to our Peruvian reality. Also the variety of food was a clear marker of our being in Peru with crate loads of locally grown fruit and veg consumed during our journey. Each valley felt quite distinct as the overbearing peaks showed us all their faces, the rocks changed and we passed lakes, forests and a tiny subsistence village. We popped in to Alpamayo Base Camp for a cup of tea with Dave Walsh´s Alpamayo team just days before their 100% success. Laura and Martin managed somehow to appreciate the trek even though they were a little sleep deprived through distended down mats and deflating thermarests!

We rested below Pisco and took the opportunity to brush up on our ropework. It proved a fun session with debates continuing long into tea time in the mess tent. A treat to have such a range of climbing backgrounds on this trip - from Martin with North Face solos in the Alps to Gus with current SPA best practice training - there was something for everyone to learn from each other going beyond simple ropework: motivation, style, ethics and appreciation of the mountains were all on the table to be evaluated. Peruvian (and Bolivian) expeditions bring a taste of Euro climbing - moving together, fast and light - to the high mountains, to a greater extent than Nepalese expeditions are capable of.

We moved to Moraine Camp at 4,900m on Pisco Oeste, the second third of our expedition, to aid our acclimatisation. And with very firm conditions we made Pisco’s summit in under four and a half hours. It is a relatively easy summit to attain but the panoramic views made it especially rewarding. The front runners sheltered in the warm red glow of the Jagged Globe Bothy Bag so that we could all be on the top together.

Descent to BC was past a Refugio and the step across into Italy a pleasant and rewarding way to toast the success of our first summit in the Cordillera Blanca.

Following Pisco we descended to Huaraz for a shower and pizza (and thermarest shopping) before heading up to Musho, the little town at the foot of the mighty twin-peaked Huascaran, and our final third of the expedition. Fortunately as we made the big slog up to Huascaran’s Base Camp the mountain shrank to an attainable size. We were joined by Dave and four of his Alpamayo Summiteers for our climb of Huascaran, making for a squishy but warm mess tent.

We moved up over delightful rock slabs, playing with that edgy balance one has in plastics to Moraine Camp and dining al fresco. I was impressed by Martin and Laura’s inner strength in not adjourning to the bar of the nearby Refugio, just a stone’s throw away. And knew at this point they had all that was needed to make the top of the hulk above us.

A short carry to the edge of the ice and then a move to Camp I where the business began. From a physical climbing and aesthetic side our day through the Garganta was delightful. Enough steepness to feel engaged by the climbing. A couple of crevasses to step across and climb past. We pitched a couple of sections but mostly moved together. Consensus on the axe issue was that one was fine, but for a single move where two was nice! From a leader’s perspective it was a day to move quickly and crack few jokes. I asked no-one what’s orange and sounds like a parrot. We pushed on past stunning seracs and fresh debris. All the guides using the harbour of Camp II as a carrot to draw us on, it was windswept, cradled by two fine mounds, but safe, just below the col.

Our sleep at Camp Two was disturbed by doubts the weather would allow a summit attempt as the wind buffetted the tents. Midnight saw Dave, Damian and me making a decision that conditions were good. A little more sleep. Then by two thirty we were roped up and moving away from camp.

We left Mike (Ice Man) and Terry in camp – broken boots, chest colds, and high camp contentment all contributing to their sleep in. Though I did wake them up at 0130 just so they would not get too good a sleep at High Camp.

Rob turned back from just over 6,000m having pushed hard. A little later Dave and Nick decided they had reached their high point for the day and returned. Gus joined them to safely descend but left doubts in his head. He still had a little fuel in the tank though was anxious that had he continued and turned around later he may have compromised someone else's summit attempt. I felt his disappointment though was hugely appreciative of having his character trait in our team.

Steve and Stephan, having completed the practice/warm-up peak of Alpamayo, sumitted strongly in what was a very long tough day.

Mike and Tony summited on a rope together. Due to their ongoing Mac vs PC argument I knew neither would dare turn around before the other and concede defeat. However, I suspect Mike´s digital presentation will be the more impressive, though the Invisible Man may need a little touching up. A huge rap to Tony for climbing such a big mountain on his first foray into the greater ranges, and an excellent choice of stepping stone to an 8,000m peak.

For Martin and Laura the summit was only a little more than a walk in the park. Their physical fitness and experience gained from previous expeditions carried them through.

Whilst the summiteers pushed on upwards the rest of us packed our tents in a gusty wind and moved back to the warmth and calm of base camp. A day to reflect before the team was reunited and with a Pisco Sour or two we flowed home. My thanks to our Peruvian team (with many familiar faces from 2005) for supporting our strong team of climbers.

Mic Rofe, Expedition Leader « | Next report »

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