Trip Reports

Khumbu Climber - 10 April to 7 May '09

Written by Team Member Mike Purnell, May 2009

Khumbu Climber round 2 for me: I tried this circuit in 2007 but had to come home early because of sinus pains and a total lack of sleep.

A compact team on this trip – Javier the leader, Alan and Nev from Dublin, and me. Our flight to Lukla was quick and easy, only a one hour delay caused by a “technical issue”, which was much easier than the last time I was here, when we had to wait several days for the weather to clear enough to land.

This was my fourth visit to Nepal but my first pre-monsoon, and, as expected, the light was not as clear as the post-monsoon season. It was dustier but warmer, with a weather pattern of clear skies first thing, then clouding up through the day.

Acclimatisation through Namche, Tengboche, Dingboche and up to Pokalde seemed to go well for me, but unfortunately Nev was not enjoying the altitude and decided to go home the day after trying Pokalde. Alan went from strength to strength after an early bout of illness and consequent loss of appetite. After that he seemed to grow hollow legs and a Tardis-like stomach, with an insatiable need for dhal bhat.

Pokalde seemed to come and go in a flash, though I guess there was some puffing and panting along the way. So on to Island Peak, where base camp was very dusty and it was a welcome move up to the rocky prow of high camp. Unfortunately I brought an all-around headache with me that lasted all day and all night, so summit day pre-dawn I decided to be lazy and stay in my sleeping bag. Not too much of a loss for me though, as I’d summited Island Peak in 2006 with the bouncy Mic Rofe.

A couple of welcome nights in lodges at Chukhung and Dingboche, relaxing to the sound of the wind rattling the roof, then next stop Lobuje East base camp – a beautiful setting in a green valley which we had to ourselves, diminished only by litter left by previous visitors, and the nearest water was a patch of snow a few hundred metres away. Up to high camp next to a green-blue lake and so on up, starting in the dark and getting to the summit at 10a.m. Someone said I was on fire that day. Maybe slightly smouldering, but it was the strongest I’ve ever felt on a 6000m peak, and it was an enjoyable mix of rock, snow and ice. Perhaps the Clif bar and High5 gel I had for breakfast helped, I don’t know, but it was a very good day for me. We saw the tent platforms on the summit where Russell Brice’s Everest clients had been acclimatising, but no-one else on the mountain that day.

The last week was something of a blur: Monday – summited Lobuje East, Tuesday – across the austere wasteland around the Cho La, Wednesday – Gokyo Ri, Thursday – Namche, Friday – Lukla, Saturday – Kathmandu following an “interesting” flight through the thick clouds. And... pause for breath, extensive shower and clean clothes.

A couple of things I’m really glad I took: jelly beans and a Walkman phone for music and movies. Movies set in warm and sunny places helped take my mind off those nights when it was cold.

And a few words about the people who kept us safe:
- Javier Herrera – a man with a clear love of all mountains and his family, far away in Ecuador. Someone who has found his vocation, and was unerringly professional and a great person to spend time with.
- Ang Dorje our Sirdar – so full of energy and direction.
- Pasang Sherpa – strong, solid and so helpful.

We got back to Kathmandu a couple of days early so had time to spend at Swayambunath, Pashupatinath and Bodinath, as well as playing “dodge the strike” in the taxi – some days it was slightly difficult to get around with the demonstrations going on, complete with the occasional burning tyre.

On the last night we enjoyed a meal at Jalan Jalan close to the Summit Hotel, exchanging books. Alan and I bought one as a gift for Javier, but he surprised us both by also giving us books. Thanks Javier for the Paulo Coelho.

We finished off our time in Nepal with a visit to Javier’s wife’s Danielle Children’s Fund house in Kathmandu www.daniellechildrensfund.org and then home to my wife and children, perspective renewed and counting my blessings. « Previous report | Next report »

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