Trip Reports

Lhakpa Ri & The North Col - 25 Apr to 23 May '09

Lhakpa Ri from our camp at ABC on Everest

Written by Leader Roger Smith, May 2009

With an age range from 25 to 71 this expedition was successful in getting five members to the top of Lhakpa Ri (7035m) and seven to Everest North Col (7066m). But it so nearly didn’t happen at all ……. the very late granting of Tibetan visas by the Chinese authorities to foreigners and a virulent – and recurrent – stomach bug nearly jeopardised our chances of success!

The ten members and two leaders met for the first time at the Summit Hotel on Sunday 26 April. Next day was spent sightseeing in Kathmandu whilst our Tibetan visa was processed; checking the suitability of personal clothing and equipment and a general expedition briefing. Just prior to our departure overland to Tibet we met our Nepali team – Pema our Sirdar; Ongchhu, Pasang and Aangdu our Sherpas; Arjun our cook and Dawa our cook-assistant. The five hour journey ended at Kodari – the Nepali settlement close to the Tibetan border.

Next morning we watched in amazement as all our food and equipment was carried on the backs of locals through the village, over the Friendship Bridge to an awaiting lorry provided by the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA). Meanwhile we were ‘herded’ like wild animals; checked and re-checked through the Chinese Customs house in the uniquely officious – yet farcical way that only the Chinese authorities seem able to perpetuate so well!

Progress on the road journey to Nyalam (3750m) from the border was punctuated by numerous road-works an our twin ‘concrete-box rooms” at the Nyalam Hotel were spacious and the ‘facilities’ relatively clean and basic. Two “full day” acclimatisation walks from this base took us to 4780m and 4400m respectively and afforded fine views of Shishapangma to ‘whet’ the appetite!

Above Nyalam the dusty road snaked its way up to the Thang La pass at 5200m from where the early morning light etched the outline of several Himalayan giant mountains. Progress beyond dog-infested Tingri was temporarily halted by major road-building that was eventually circum-navigated by some impressive “off-road” jeep driving. Party members couldn’t believe their luck as they drew up outside the very respectable looking Chomalangma Hotel in Xegar (4330m) complete with ‘en suite’facilities.

The day-and-a-half in Xegar was well spent with a visit to the monastery and a walk up the hill behind it among the ruins of a former dynasty to a height of 4600m. All the time the views across the fertile plains - being hastily planted with potatoes and barley - were most impressive.

Our reluctance at leaving the comfort of Xegar was tinged with the excitement of the next leg of our journey towards Everest (North) Base Camp. The extensive panorama from the top of the Pang La pass (5120m) gave us breath-taking views of a huge sweep of the Himalayas including Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Gyachung and Cho Oyu.

The three days at Everest Base Camp (EBC) (5200m) were spent acclimatising to the altitude with magnificent views set against the back-drop of Everest’s enormous North Face! Walks up to Camp I (5500m) and ropework sessions were included. It was during this period that Tony W decided to leave the expedition since he was having great difficulty acclimatising.

The three days spent ascending to our Advance Base Camp (ABC) at 6350m were hard work but were made all the more interesting on account of an abundance of fresh snow-fall.

It took everyone time to adjust to the rigours of living at ABC – and some would even admit they never did! The three days of acclimatisation were spent partly at rest; making occasional forays to Everest Advance Base Camp and to the base of North Col’s fixed ropes as well as practising jumaring and abseiling on nearby slabs of ice.

Unfortunately Peter R and Eilwyn L found conditions up here too uncomfortable and decided to retreat to the thicker air of lower altitudes; meanwhile Roger P – who had retreated earlier from Camp I to Base Camp with a bad chest infection - rejoined the party and our sherpas Ongchhu and Aangdu fixed 500 metres of rope on the route up Lhakpa Ri!

Before dawn on Friday 15 May three ropes (1.Terry-Simon-Gerry-Aangdu 2. Roger S-Paul-Derek-Pema 3.Pasang-James-Ongchhu-George ) set off eastwards through the ice sculptured penitentes across the East Rongbuk glacier; crossed a few small crevasses and entered the huge glacial bowl at the base of the fixed ropes. Here the ropes were left for the return and individuals chose their own rate of ascent of the fixed ropes by jumar. A short distance from the top Derek was violently sick and was hastily escorted to lower altitude whilst the remainder reached the western top of Lhakpa Ri at 7035m.

Not much happened next day as “batteries” were re-charged in readiness for the ascent of the fixed ropes to North Col.

At first light on Sunday 17 May the expedition compliment made its way past Everest ABC onto the glacier leading to the base of the fixed ropes for North Col. Individuals jumared up the ropes at their own pace with the first to arrive on the col at 1015hrs and the last by 1315hrs. The rate of descent was also determined by each person and all returned safely to our ABC by 1650hrs exhausted yet elated!

Our final day at ABC was spent “chilling out” as best we could and our yaks arrived in the late afternoon.

The 23 km (14 mile) walk down from our ABC to EBC was no “push over” and occupied 8 hours of a glorious day with great views amidst majestic scenery. To round off the evening meal Arjun – our cook – produced a magnificent “Summit Cake” with which to celebrate our achievements.

We “broke” camp for the last time, packed our bags onto the CMA lorry and jumped into the jeeps for an 11-hours marathon drive to Zhangmu. We crossed the Lamna La pass - with great views of Cho Oyu - and then on to Tingri for a welcome lunch break. The remainder of the journey past Nyalam was tedious with multiple stops for road repairs and even a domestic “punch up” at one point!

Our final ‘short’ night at the Zhangmu Hotel in a bed with sheets and blankets was a real luxury and heralded our safe return through customs into Nepal and to the wonderful welcome of the comforts of the Summit Hotel.

Roger Smith, Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

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