Mont Blanc Italian Route

Overview

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Introduction

The Aiguilles Grises Route from the Gonella Hut on the Italian side of Mont Blanc is a far less frequented route than either the Goûter Route or the The North-East Ridge from the Col du Midi. You need previous Alpine experience on routes of PD+ and you need to be very fit, as it's a long, long way to the summit. Typically the route involves negotiating a number of crevasses on the Glacier du Dome. We will acclimatise on Gran Paradiso, meaning we spend all of the week in Italy.

After a night in Chamonix where we meet our Guides, we drive through the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Italy and walk up to the lovely Chabod Hut. This is a beautiful walk through pine trees at first, to reach the hut after about 2.5 hours. In the afternoon we can do some skills training. The following day, we climb Gran Paradiso by the normal route. This is a glacial climb, with a short, rocky section at the top. We descend to the Vittorio Emmanuele Hut, another much-enjoyed Italian hut for some hearty pasta! We then descend back to the valley before driving to Courmayer, where we'll spend the night. The next day, it's an 8.5km and 1,500m ascent walk from Cantine de la Visaille to the new Gonella Hut, which is perched on a rocky spur below the Aiguille Grises Ridge. In the early hours, we'll leave the hut and access the glacier to the right of the Aiguille Grises Ridge, following it to the Col des Aiguille Grises and Piton des Italians to eventually join the Goûter Route.

Descending back down the Aiguilles Grises route is not usually a good idea, due to the ridge being insecure in soft afternoon snow. As with all our Mont Blanc climbs, the Guides will ultimately decide which route to climb, depending on the conditions, the fitness and the ability of the group.

Alternatively, you can climb Mont Blanc as a 3-day extension to our intermediate level courses in Switzerland or Chamonix, the Saas 4000ers, Oberland 4000ers, Zermatt 4000ers or Alpine Techniques courses.

Course base: Chamonix, France

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Mont Blanc Traverse - route to the top

The Aiguilles Grises Route from the Gonella Hut
Though not overly technical, the route from the Gonella Hut is a massive 1,760m of ascent to the summit and crevassing on the glacier that leads to the Col des Aiguille Grises can prove problematic. Once the mixed ridge to the Piton des Italians has been ascended, the route continues up the narrow Arête de Bionnassay to join the Goûter Route at the Dôme du Goûter. We aim to ascend the Aiguilles Grises route and descend via the Goûter Route.

Typical Programme

Day 1:	Saturday. Course participants meet at our hotel in Chamonix at 7pm. Briefing on the week's activities in the evening.
Day 2:	Sunday. Drive through the Mont Blanc tunnel to Italy. Walk up to the Chabod Hut (2,715m).
Day 3:	Monday. Climb Gran Paradiso (4,061m), descend to the Vittorio Emanuele Hut (2,725m).
Day 4:	Tuesday. Descend to valley. Overnight hotel in Italy.
Day 5:	Wednesday. Long walk to the Gonella Hut (3,071m), (5 hours).
Day 6:	Thursday. Summit climb (8 hours). Descend to the Goûter Hut (3,817m).
Day 7:	Friday Descend to Nid D'Aigle and return to Chamonix.
Day 8:	Saturday. Dispersal. Breakfast will be provided on the last morning before you leave the course.

Further Information

Find out more about our Guides and Ratios, Alpine Grading and Equipment... read more

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the course or your suitability for it, please phone +44 (0)114 276 3322 or contact us.

What the price includes

• 2 nights hotel accommodation in Chamonix on a twin-sharing (occasionally triple/quad), half-board basis
• 1 nights hotel accommodation in Courmayeur on a twin-sharing, half-board basis
• 4 nights mountain hut accommodation in a shared dormitory bunk, half-board basis
• 6 days guiding with a qualified IFMGA Mountain Guide. Ratio 3 days at 1:4, 3 days at 1:2 maximum
• Transport (by public means, private hire vehicle, minibus or guides' cars) to fulfil the course programme
• Group mountaineering equipment such as ropes and other technical equipment
• Ice axes, crampons, harnesses & helmets, when booked in advance

What the price does not include

• Travel to/from Chamonix (a shared transfer from Geneva Airport can be booked through Jagged Globe)
• Lunch
• Cable cars, mountain railways and mechanical uplift (estimated cost £20)
• Personal climbing equipment and clothing (including boots, which can be hired locally)
• Mountaineering and travel Insurance

Please note that the costs for mechanical up-lift are not included in the overall course cost because these can vary, depending on the weather and routes selected. This means that we are not restricted by a budget. Also, if we spend less on up-lift than expected, you make the saving rather than us.

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Travel & Venue

Fly to Geneva. A 50 minute airport transfer to Chamonix can be booked through Jagged Globe via your on-line account.

Valley accommodation is in La Chaumière Mountain Lodge. The accommodation is provided on a twin-share (or occasionally, triple/quad), half-board basis. A single room supplement is payable should you want to have a room to yourself.