Ecuador Volcanoes 2015

Overview

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Ascents of the equatorial summits of Iliniza Norte, Cayambe and Cotopaxi

Introduction

One of the world’s highest active volcanoes, Cotopaxi (5,897m), is a much sought after prize for mountaineers. Our climbing programme in Ecuador has evolved over the past two decades, and combines glacier training with ascents of three major peaks, culminating in Cotopaxi.

The mountains of Ecuador are easily accessible and mountain huts provide convenient accommodation at the foot of each climb. Between climbs, you’ll stay in comfortable traditional haciendas. You don’t need any previous mountaineering experience to join this trip.

Join us on Ecuador Volcanoes October 2015

• Expedition led by Adele Pennington
• Acclimatisation and rock scrambling on Illiniza Norte (5,216m)
• Ascents of Cayambe (5,790m) and Cotopaxi (5,897m))
• Stay in wonderful haciendas with great food in-between the climbs

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Tailor-made option

We can organise this expedition on a ‘tailor-made’ private basis for groups of friends, families, clubs, charities or any other group. Depending on your mountaineering experience, you may want a Jagged Globe leader or go ‘self-led’ with the assistance of local guides. The cost of going private can be surprisingly reasonable, particularly if you take the self-led option. Please contact us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates. We will then send you a quote, with no obligation.

Experience Required

To join the expedition and have a good chance of success, you must have:

• Previous experience of British hill walking, preferably in winter conditions and preferably including confidence on Grade I scrambles on exposed ridges (e.g. Crib Goch or Striding Edge).
• To have a good level of health, fitness and determination.

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please phone +44 (0)114 276 3322 or contact us.

What the price includes

• Economy class return airfares from the UK (unless otherwise specified.)
• UK airport taxes.
• All hotel/airport transfers.
• 4 nights' hotel accommodation (3 star) in Quito, on a bed and breakfast basis.
• 4 nights' hacienda accommodation, on a full-board basis.
• 4 nights' mountain hut accommodation, on a full-board basis.
• 1 nights' accommodation in tents on a full-board basis.
• All road transport by private vehicles.
• All costs for leaders, guides and local helpers.
• Jagged Globe kitbag or lightweight fleece.

What the price does not include

• Visa fees.
• Overseas airports taxes not paid in advance through the international airline ticket.
• Extraneous hotel bills (e.g. bar and laundry).
• Lunch and evening meals in Quito.
• Additional hotel nights in Quito, if the programme is changed.
• Travel Insurance.
• Optional trips.
• Tips.

Tailor-made option

We can organise this expedition on a ‘tailor-made’ private basis for groups of friends, families, clubs, charities or any other group. Depending on your mountaineering experience, you may want a Jagged Globe leader or go ‘self-led’ with the assistance of local guides. The cost of going private can be surprisingly reasonable, particularly if you take the self-led option. Please contact us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates. We will then send you a quote, with no obligation.

Insurance

You will need a travel insurance policy that caters for the activities you will undertake on your trip with Jagged Globe. It is a requirement of our booking conditions that you have such a policy. For a list of insurers who specialise in mountaineering, trekking and skiing, please see our Travel Insurance page »

Itinerary

Here is an outline itinerary for this trip. A more detailed day-to-day itinerary is available as a downloadable PDF »

Typical Itinerary

Day 1:	Fly to Quito Flights from London arrive late the same day. Quito is at an altitude of 2,850m.
Day 2:	Acclimatisation & City Tour
Day 3:	Ascent of Pasochoa (4,200m) You'll set off at 7.30am and begin the 1hr30 drive to the foot of the peak. The grassy trails winding to its summit are reminiscent of the Peak District, apart from the common swirling mists, which can bring the sulphurous smell of simmering lava from below! From the summit you may see condors - Pasochoa is one of the few volcanoes where these huge birds glide. Return to Quito for the night.
Day 4:	Walk to Guagua Pichincha (4,787m) The "Pichinchas" hang over the western side of Quito. Again, you'll set off at 7.30am and drive 1hr20 to the end of the trail at 3,750 metres. Being 600 metres higher than Pasochoa, you'll be pushing above the line of vegetation today, so expect the trail to be rocky and dusty, if it is dry. After 2 hours of steady walking, we reach a hut at 4,550m and have a break. About an hour beyond the hut, you'll reach a small rocky outcrop that is the top of the mountain. You can expect to be on top at about 12:30. There are grand views over the other Pichinchas and Quito. Overnight hacienda.
Day 5:	Iliniza - hike to La Virgen Camp (4,000m) Long ago, Illiniza exploded and split in half. The North and South peaks now stand 2km apart, separated by a saddle - you'll climb the north peak. Camping at 4,000m aids acclimatisation. Your kit bags, tent and food will be driven up in a Land Cruiser. You'll arrive at lunchtime and can fit harnesses and maybe practice with prussic loops and karabiners. Over dinner the setting sun lights the tips of the peaks to a flame red, before burning through purple as darkness moves over the tents.
Day 6:	Iliniza Norte Summit Day (5,126m) After a 5am breakfast you'll trek for three hours to reach the halfway refuge. The next three hours is fantastic - scrambling up crenulated slabs and along castellated ridges. Where it's narrow the rock is sound and the holds big. The scrambling is never too difficult but you'll rope up in places. After the first hour on the ridge, you'll traverse the head of some steep amphitheatres. Then you'll climb open corners and up short steep steps, over rocks of red, yellow and orange sandstones and volcanic pumices. Descend to hacienda.
Day 7:	Drive to Hacienda Guachala/Otavalo Market Today it's time to move into position ready for the next mountain, Cayambe. In the afternoon you can visit a stunning market. It sells woollens that make Joseph's Coat of Many Colours look monochrome! You'll overnight in a local hacienda, and can enjoy an evening of local folk music and dance.
Day 8:	Drive to Cayambe, walk to the refuge (4,600m) You'll set off at 9am for a two hr drive up the mountain. It's then too hazardous to take passengers so you'll walk to the refuge from here, while the bags continue up in the car. After soup, tea and a picnic you'll walk up to the start of the glacier (4,930m) to aid acclimatisation and perhaps practice crampon skills.
Day 9:	Training and acclimatisation on Cayambe Glacier Cayambe is the only glacier in the world which straddles the Equator, giving the rare experience of zero degrees centigrade at zero degrees latitude. Because of its easterly position and proximity to the Amazon basin, Cayambe receives heavy precipitation and has an impressive ice cap. Its gentle slopes are a good place to practice basic glacier skills, crampon and ice axe techniques. You'll return to the hut by mid-afternoon, and prepare for the big climb by having a good dinner!
Day 10:	Climb Cayambe (5,790m) You'll leave around midnight and crampon and rope up at the edge of the glacier. The slope steadily steepens and, as dawn approaches, the summit dome becomes silhouetted against the brightening sky. Before the sun breaches the skyline, you'll be tantalisingly close to your goal. Below the summit is a mini-ice garden, with crevasses and ice sculptures to wander through. Then there's a final 30m of 40-degree ice - the guide will belay you up and you'll soon be atop the third highest point in Ecuador. You'll see Illiniza, Cotopaxi, and the perpetually smoking Tungurahua. Then you'll descend and sleep between fresh sheets in a local hacienda tonight.
Day 11:	Drive to Cotopaxi National Park, night in Tambopaxi lodge (3,750m) Today there's no rush to get up, but breakfast and a keen appetite is sure to have you at the table before anyone else. Then, you'll be off to Cotopaxi National Park. We can stop on at a shopping centre on the outskirts of Quito if anyone needs supplies. You'll stay in a delightful lodge from which you can watch the blazing orange sunset over your next mountain, which dominates the skyline. You can also do some washing.
Day 12:	Ascend to Cotopaxi Hut (4,800m) You'll travel into the National Park today, and drop kitbags off at Tambopaxi en route to the foot of the mountain. When you step out onto the volcanic dust of a moonscape you'll find the thin air has a cold freshness, which gives a sense of vigour and vitality as you complete the 800m ascent to the hut.
Day 13-14:	Cotopaxi summit push (5,897m) You'll leave around 1am. You'll rope up to protect the team from hidden crevasses and steeper sections. The crater rim is ice encrusted - Cotopaxi's crater is a spectacular feature and the mix of ice and steam vents make an unusual combination. After soaking in the awesome panoramic views from the second highest point in Ecuador you'll descend to the hut. Spare summit day in case of bad weather.
Day 15 - 16:	Fly Quito to UK

PLEASE NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

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