Makalu

Overview

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An expedition to climb the fifth highest mountain in the world via the North Face and North West Ridge

Introduction

"While standing on top of Everest, I looked across the valley, towards the other great peak, Makalu, and mentally worked out a route about how it could be climbed… it showed me that, even though I was standing on top of the world, it wasn’t the end of everything for me, by any means. I was still looking beyond to other interesting challenges." Edmund Hillary

In spring 2011 we climbed Makalu from the north via the 'normal' route taken by the French on the first ascent in 1955. At 8,463m, Makalu is the world's 5th highest mountain. Attempting to climb Makalu is both a challenging and serious undertaking and its remoteness and difficulties make it a step above many other 8,000m peaks.

Just 22Km east of Everest and 80Km west of Kangchenjunga, Makalu has a distinctive pyramid shape, with its South East and North Western ridges being most prominent. The latter provides the normal route used by the majority of climbers attempting the summit. From a base camp at the foot of the Chago Glacier, 5 camps are placed on the mountain, including Camp 3 on the Makalu La at 7,400m and a high camp on the North Face at approximately 7,600m.

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Tailor-made option

We can organise this expedition on a ‘tailor-made’ private basis for groups of friends, families, clubs, charities or any other group. Depending on your mountaineering experience, you may want a Jagged Globe leader or go ‘self-led’ with the assistance of local guides. The cost of going private can be surprisingly reasonable, particularly if you take the self-led option. Please contact us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates. We will then send you a quote, with no obligation.

Experience Required

The Makalu expedition is suitable for experienced mountaineers with previous 8,000m climbing experience. You need to be fully conversant with mountaineering techniques, ideally, having completed Alpine climbs equivalent to AD and Scottish Grade III/IV.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please phone +44 (0)114 276 3322 or contact us.

Know Before You Go

Jagged Globe supports the British Foreign & Commonwealth Office (FCO) ‘Know Before You Go’ campaign. We recommend that you read the FCO Travel Advice for Nepal on the FCO Website.

What the price includes

• Economy class return airfares from the UK (unless Land Only).
• UK airline taxes.
• Hotel/airport transfers.
• Accommodation at our base in Kathmandu, the relaxing Summit Hotel.
• Oxygen (4 bottles + use of TopOut mask)
• All road transport by private vehicles.
• All camping facilities and meals during the expedition.
• All porterage costs.
• All costs for leaders, guides and Sherpas.
• Jagged Globe kitbag or fleece.

What the price does not include

• Visa fees.
• Overseas airports taxes not paid in advance through the international airline ticket.
• Additional bottles of oxygen.
• Bar bills and laundry.
• Travel insurance.
• Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu.
• Optional trips and sightseeing tours.
• Tips.

Insurance

You will need a travel insurance policy that caters for the activities you will undertake on your trip with Jagged Globe. It is a requirement of our booking conditions that you have such a policy. For a list of insurers who specialise in mountaineering, trekking and skiing, please see our Travel Insurance page »

Itinerary

Here is an outline itinerary for this trip. A more detailed day-to-day itinerary is available as a downloadable PDF »

Outline Itinerary

Day 1 - 2:	Fly to Kathmandu
Day 3:	At leisure in Kathmandu
Day 4:	Fly Kathmandu to Tumlingtar and drive to Chichila
Day 5 - 13:	Trek to Makalu Base Camp
Day 14 - 16:	Acclimatisation at Base Camp. Rather than use the North Ridge Base Camp, you stay at the much nicer South East Ridge Base Camp.
Day 17 - 50:	Ascent of Makalu North East Ridge
Day 51 - 57:	Return trek
Day 58:	Fly Tumlingtar to Kathmandu
Day 59:	At leisure in Kathmandu at the Summit Hotel.
Day 60:	Depart Kathmandu Your scheduled flight back to the UK arrives in London Heathrow early evening.

PLEASE NOTE: The above itinerary is not a fixed programme but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Please note that because of the nature of mountaineering on 8,000m peaks, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations as they present themselves. Any changes to the itinerary will be made with a view to maximising the benefit to the team members and of ensuring their eventual success on the mountain.

Photos & Videos

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Reports & Reviews

First Expedition: March 2011
Total: 1 trip

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Team Member Reviews

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Leader Reports

• Makalu 2011
  “Robert M Anderson, Expedition Leader, April/May, 2011 Members: Adele, Bunter, James, Jim, Mark, Ron The Approach Bunter and I had been on Everest the year before. There we were standing on the tallest peak in the world...”
  report added 06/Oct/11