Trip Reports

Matterhorn Summit - 10 Aug to 17 Aug '19

Written by Leader Jamie Holding, August 2019

More Matterhorn Magic

Thanks to Mountain Guide Tomaz, Colin and Magda completed their Matterhorn week with a successful summit climb.

The week began with a technical rock climb in the Aiguilles Rouge above Chamonix, to start acclimatising and practice footwork. An overnight visit to the Rifugio Torino 3375m provided further acclimatisation, with both the Aiguilles Marbrees and Entreves traversed.

Transferring to Zermatt and taking the lift up to Schwarzsee allowed for a simple two hour approach to the Hörnli hut 3260m. The ridge above was in good condition, dry rock and snow above the Shoulder 4250m.

With a 4.30am start we waited our turn to grapple with the fixed rope on the first buttress, before settling into a rhythm for the head torch lit scramble. A  couple of pitches near the emergency Solvay shelter 4003m, the Moseley slabs, are graded III and with snow from the Shoulder onwards, we donned crampons for the final fixed ropes and summit slope. We all reached the airy summit, paused to take in the view but knew we had plenty more to do.

As the late, great British Mountain Guide Martin Moran wrote, in his 4000m Peaks of the Alps guide book, “the descent is mentally and physically more taxing than the ascent.” Tomaz and Colin descended at pace. Magda showed huge mental toughness, sustaining her efforts. It was a buzzing team that ultimately reunited at the Hotel Aristella in Zermatt.

Colin is a Jagged Globe graduate, completing his Alpine Introduction and Mont Blanc in 2013, followed by Saas 4000ers, Alpine Techniques and Chamonix Climber in the years since. Magda brought high altitude experience from Mera and Island Peaks, plus ascents in Bolivia and Ecuador. She has also benefited from technical training in Scotland, with Jagged Globe leader Adele Pennington.

For all of us the Matterhorn provided a challenging experience, a great day and a milestone on our mountaineering journey.

Jamie

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