Trip Reports

Aconcagua - 17 Jan to 10 Feb '08

Written by Leader Andy Chapman, February 2008

After a long and unfortunate delayed flight out to South America, we eventually arrived in Buenos Aires and after a meal by the river, we caught the flight Mendoza where we were taken to our excellent and quiet hotel on the outskirts of Mendoza. Next we sorted equipment, dealt with paperwork for the Aconcagua Park Authorities and ate large meals (mostly Steak!), with superb red wine. We travelled to Los Penitents to start our adventure by entering the park and walking to Base Camp know as Plaza de Mules. Thankfully we experienced some good weather at the start of our trip. We stopped for two nights at Confluence Camp for acclimatisation and views of the South Face of Aconcagua. The next morning we had medical checks - sadly Richard, Peter and Bob had slightly higher than average blood pressure and elected to wait another day at the camp. The rest of the team climbed to base camp at Plaza de Mules in 7hrs, arriving in near-perfect weather.

We rested at Base Camp and enjoyed the luxury of a shower at the "hotel" 30 minutes walk from base camp. Happily the next day Rich and Peter joined us at base camp after being given the ok by the Dr. at Confluence. They walked to base camp with a local guide in 8 hrs. Unfortunately Bob had to descend, but he was able to participate in another trek.

On the following day we successfully climbed Bonete Peak in 4.5 hrs up 5,000m and 2 hrs down. After another rest day we established camp one at 5,050m, spent the night there and carried loads to camp 2 at 5,550m before returning to base camp for another well-earned rest and another shower at the nearby hotel in the hills.

The summit attempt started well with a good 3 hrs climb to camp one in good weather. Sadly at this point Rachel and Richard had to descend to base camp, the rest carried onto camp two and celebrated Martin's birthday with a superb cake at 5,500m! After a rest day at camp two we continued to Berlin Huts where at just under 6,000m we stayed for our summit push. Peter, who had not been going so well on the expedition decided to wait at high camp due to his knees giving him a bit of trouble. Despite his disappointment in not attempting the summit he accepted it with great dignity and helped with exhausted members after our summit day the next day.

Summit day started at 3.30 am with a weather check by myself in consultation with Genie the Argentinian guide. At 6.15 am, dressed in down jackets and goggles to guard against the bitter wind and cold, we set off. The first 4 hrs took us to Independence Hut and after a break to re-hydrate and stock up on energy with chocolate and sweets, we continued to the traverse towards the infamous Canaleta, which some people consider the most difficult part of the climb.

Unfortunately at this point Fred had to turn around and was escorted by our very able third mountain guide Henry. The rest of the group continued up in somewhat unusually good weather. The faster team was lead by Genie, on his 7th ascent of the mountain and comprised Larry, John, Rich and the two friends who are also very keen bell ringers, Martin and Peter, we sometimes nick named them "Ding and Dong". I brought up the rear with only 50 meters behind us Gordo, who escorted David and Mark. In effect the whole party arrived at pretty well the same time on the highest point in the Americas and the second highest of the Seven Summits.

It was a great moment for all after a huge amount of effort over many weeks. On a personal level it was great to summit for the third time and to meet Pablo on the summit who was our 2nd guide on my first expedition here in December 1999.

After a pleasant 30 minutes on top we descended to Berlin Huts, rounding off a 13 hour day out with tea and dehydrated meals (which are actually nicer than they sound!)

The next day we descended to Plaza de Mulas. In the evening we had heavy snow but left for the walk out of base camp (Martin who is a geologist by profession was in seventh heaven with all the spectacular rock formation to photography).

We returned to Mendoza to meet up with our friends who sadly did not summit the mountain with us. After a relaxing time and some great meals in Mendoza and Buenos Aires we boarded the plane for the long flight back to the UK after a fantastic time in Argentina.

Andrew Chapman 12th February 2007
Expedition Leader

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