Trip Reports

Aconcagua - 14 Dec to 7 Jan '09

Written by Leader Mic Rofe, January 2009

Three simple steps for our entire group to make it to the top of the Caneletta, and eleven of twelve on to the Summit: Approach, Acclimatise, Ascend...

The start of the Approach in Mendoza was nearly our downfall with steak after juicy steak adding numerous pounds to later be carried up with us. It was easy to make any last minute gear purchases with outdoor shops seemingly to be found on every tree-lined street. Mary had taken lightweight packing to the extreme, but both Gianni, our senior local guide, and I agreed that perhaps a footwear option between flip-flops and plastics would be nice.

We drove up to Penitentes, near the Chilean border, from where we entered the Parque Provincial Aconcagua and within an hour of trekking had our first view of the Stone Sentinel. We spent two nights camped at Confluencia and John managed to keep his ratio of days walking to showers at 1:1. From here we went for a day walk up to near Plaza Francia to stare up and be humbled by the immensity of the South Face. Phil spent ten minutes setting up his SLR for a photo and was momentarily speechless when I teased that it wasn´t Aconcagua he was recording, but quickly found his tongue filled with great wisdom as he pointed out that it did not matter as it was beautiful anyway.

The end of our unhurried approach came at Plaza de Mulas in an exhausting eight-hour, sixteen mile day from Confluencia. We were blasted relentlessly by a strong dusty headwind as we slowly pushed our buff clad faces up valley to finish at a small semi-civilized tent city.

From Plaza de Mulas we Acclimatised. Initially, quite passively with a short stroll to the hotel for a shower. Then actively with a day walk to over 5,000m on Bonete Peak. We were treated to a full panorama and could see virtually every step of the Ascent, which was ahead of us. Another passive day of acclimatisation filled with showers, pizzas, burgers, internet and phonecalls. And a stroll to the Med post for our obligatory tests – all well. We were climbing a mountain but staying so still?

Our first steps proper onto Aconcagua were as an overnight load carrying mission. We took our personal gear and a small load (4-5kg) on a tough afternoon stroll up to Camp Canada and its stunning sunsets. From inside their tent Gianni and Lisa somehow managed to top the excellent basecamp food. They produced a delicious pasta carbonara which went down a treat. The following day, leaving our personal gear in camp, we pushed on upwards to drop our loads of food at Nido de Condores in readiness for our summit bid.

Back in Camp we ended the Acclimatisation phase of our ascent with Christmas Dinner and Kris Kringle presents. It was great to meet up with John Armstrong´s group and congratulate them on their success. Two key pieces of advice from him resounded: pack as lightly as possible; and, having done the training at home, now on the mountain the task becomes 80% mental.

On Boxing Day we started packing for our Ascent. The second time up to Canada felt easier, another good dinner from Gianni and beautiful sunset, then the following day up to Nido de Condores. Here at 5,500m we rested and practiced with our crampons. Nick S kept abreast of world happenings with his endless supply of magazines. As impressive to me as his summiting at seventy years of age was the style and grace he maintained throughout his ascent, bravo!

Up to Berlin and it was best to think of this point as a staging post rather than a lovely campsite. We drank, ate our high altitude rations, topped up waterbottles and waited for our wake up call.

It came positively at four a.m. on 31 December. Though there had been some wind throughout the night, there was no doubt that it was a good day to head for the summit - no point waiting for another year!

Despacio, despacio. We made our way slowly, slowly. A couple of good rest stops in the sun to re-warm and appreciate the sunrise and Aconcagua´s huge shadow. Four hours to the remains of Independencia Hut and then a long haul across the traverse to the cave at the foot of the Caneletta. I noted Nick J was having his strongest day of the trip on Summit Day. Jagged Globe´s longer than average acclimatisation schedule suited him to a tee and allowed his experience of multiple expeditions time to shine. We took a long rest here and it was sobering to think that though we had only a third of our ascent to go, this point was in reality only halfway through the day as a whole.

A few more tough hours saw us on top at three thirty having lost the view to the typical afternoon cloud. All that some had left as we celebrated on top was mental toughness. Others seemed to have a bit more puff and found their cigarettes a little slow to burn... bad boys! My congratulations to our whole team on their achievement. Summit snaps to Rury & Mr Foo, two Nicks, Mary, Steph & James, John, Phil, Martin & Derek, with guides Gianni, Matthias and Lisa. And especially Hui Ling who had shown a more determined effort than all but returned with guide Fermin from beyond the top of the Caneletta.

So three simple steps led to our Success: Approach, Acclimatise and Ascend.

But as we strolled away from Plaza de Mulas two days after being on top, Mr Foo astutely pointed out that I had missed something, we had completed the three As and were still walking?!

Ahhh, the Aftermath! It will look after itself.¨ I replied. That amount of energy required to get back from the summit, to basecamp and then an extra big day out to the road! Actually one of the most beautiful days as with the Aconcagua Summit fixation removed it is easier to be aware of the park´s beauty. Then in the aftermath comes reflection and appreciation of achievements. Future plans. Somewhere in there a Party. Malbec. Carnes (or queso). Appreciations to all those who assisted. Farewells & Flights...

Mic Rofe, Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

Jagged Globe Newsletter

We publish an email newsletter with trip reports and latest availability, plus features, competitions and general news of our climbing, trekking & skiing activities.