Trip Reports

Aconcagua - 8 Jan - 1 Feb '09

Written by Leader Mic Rofe, February 2009

A bit of pushing on summit day saw eight of us gasping, exhausted at the end of the very windy Traverse – just halfway through our day! Then the wind abated, and re-hydrated we ‘cruised’ on up the Caneletta to enjoy a crystal clear panorama. Our Summiteers were Fred, Vince, Pascal, Dave M, Barnaby with local guides Gianni, Fermin and Leader Mic.

We passed through the formalities of Mendoza smoothly; gear check, permits, shopping (big mitts!), steaks and a little malbec. But keenly moved on towards Aconcagua. Our parilla completa seemed a little incompleta as the Sunday crowds, some avoiding the heavy hailstorm, overwhelmed Don Elias’ little restaurant in Uspallata. Then up to the edge of the park at Penitentes near the border with Chile.

It was great after a number of sedentary days to be on the trail and inside Parque Aconcagua. After a restless night in Confluencia, first night in a tent is never the best, we strolled up towards Plaza Francia to a height of 4000m. Here we were rewarded with an awe-inspiring view of the South Face.

The following day was a tough, dusty slog up to Plaza de Mulas. With a strong headwind the pelion wisely tucked in behind our Patagonian pillar of strength, Gianni, and eight hours later were most relieved to pull up in a very comfortable basecamp.

In Basecamp we continued to put on weight enjoying more excellent Argentinian cooking. After a rest day we stepped away from Aconcagua and up to 5,000m to the summit of Bonete Peak. It offered a very satisfying summit and the opportunity to view virtually all our higher camps and entire route on the mountain.

Our next foray was an overnight trip to Camp 1 Canada and load carry to Camp 2 Nido de Condores. Light snow kept us tent bound for dinner but the cry went out as the sun pushed through to provide an amazing sunset of sorts. The weather throughout our trip was fairly average with most afternoons seeing us enshrouded in cloud and often snow.

After another of our rest days, to Dave M. these were the most arduous of the expedition, we headed back to Canada with summit intent. Up to Nido de Condores for a rest day and a quick session to practice the simple crampon technique that we would need for summit day.

When we moved up to our top camp, Berlin, were given a taste of potential summit conditions with a stiff breeze buffeting us. All the team worked superbly together , three or four to a tent, as we packed up camp. There was enough wind to warrant goggles and a balaclava but not super cold fortunately. Sadly for the group at 5,800m we lost Maryanne from our summit team, quite exhausted she returned from here to Plaza de Mulas. She spent a busy couple of days constantly searching basecamp, trying to find one of the many things that Leo reliably informed her there were to do!

For us it was another dinner best eaten in tents before only our second pre-sun breakfast of the trip. We left Dave C with a cup of tea at his high point and wriggled our fingers and toes as we shuffled upwards into the wind.

Some respite came at the ruins of Independencia before we took on the full force of the wind crossing the Traverse. At a little rock called the finger we sheltered and adjusted balaclavas and goggles before pushing on. Not long after Nigel and Markus turned around, succumbing to the cold that was gnawing away at their extremities. Leo returned with them to Berlin which was great as he had the kettle on when we returned a number of hours later.

I think all of us, with Fred the one exception, considered turning around as we made our final steps to the foot of the Caneletta. Food and water, but mainly being sheltered and thawing, were enough to raise our heads enough to contemplate the snowbound Caneletta and the jewel not far beyond its top.

The Caneletta turned out to be ‘easy’ and the group’s hard work was rewarded with the top. Amazing views (as far as the Pacific?) were all around if one of the million red jacketed Chileans were not in the way. Congratulations to Fred, Vince, Barnaby, Dave M and Pascal, and thanks to Gianni & Fermin for their guiding support.

A quick descent, with only a few leg wobbles, saw us back in Mendoza a couple of days later. Plans already hatching in the wee hours of the morning for Barnaby’s Grand Expedition to Cho Oyu – though I am not sure I remember who is invited or how exactly one pronounces ‘Cho Oyu'...

Thanks to a great team for working together so well on a very tough mountain.

Mic Rofe, Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

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