Trip Reports

Lhakpa Ri - 22 Aug to 17 Sep '05

Written by Leader Bonny Masson, September 2005

After an enjoyable stay in Lhasa, taking in some of the famous sights, we made our way to Everest BC. On the way, we were fortunate to have amazing views from the Pang La of an Himalayan vista stretching from Makalu in the east to beyond Shishapangma, to the mountains in the far west. Excitement and a strong sense of history built as we reached Everest BC itself.

There had been a very late start to the monsoon in Nepal and this seemed to affect us after BC. Bar a couple of days, we had rain then snow each afternoon. Some days there was heavy and prolonged snow through most of the day and night. Fresh snow lay on many days to just above BC. Uunfortunately, the acclimatisation process and living at very considerable altitudes gradually took its toll on the members of the trip so that by the time we set off for the summit of Lhakpa Ri, only 4 of us were feeling well.

Crossing the heavily sculpted and rotten post-monsoon glacier at 2am by headtorch, required our instant attention! As we climbed the slopes of the mountain itself, the results of the snowfall every afternoon also became apparent. Soft, unconsolidated snow made the going exhausting. The depth of snow increased to 2 feet, with care required due to windslab and 'polystyrene' granules, as we climbed to the first summit at 6,996m. Bob Haskins, Peter Sroka, Sirdar Nima Temba, Geljin Sherpa and Ongchhhu Sherpa and I were glad to have got there! There had been great views as we climbed, with all the famous features of Everest looming behind us. Dawn was also very beautiful but at the summit, clouds and snow flakes began again. We made a final effort to top 7,000m and then quickly set off down. Keith had found the effort required on the final slopes too much and returned to the shoulder to await us, after becoming very tired. We all had to made a big effort to return to camp. The afternoon crossing of the treacherous, friable 'penitentes' of the glacier took pretty much all our strength. 'Juice' at the end must have been some of the most enjoyable ever!

In summary, a very challenging mountain, given the altitude and conditions this season, but obviously an unforgettable experience for those of us who managed to summit.

Bonny Masson, expedition leader « Previous report | Next report »

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