Trip Reports

The North Col of Everest - 29 Apr to 25 May '06

Ice axe and crampon practice above Everest ABC, Lhakpa Ri expedition

Written by Leader Andy Chapman, May 2006

Due to the political situation in Nepal, the North Col of Everest expedition approached Everest by flying via Beijing, Chengdu and then on to Lhasa, instead of the usual Kathmandu approach. At Lhasa, after three days acclimatising, we boarded four Toyota Land Cruisers which were powered by 4.5 litre petrol engines and drove to Shigatse, where we spent the night. The following day the views became more scenic and the road conditions more challenging, as we headed towards a 5,200m pass. The road approaching the pass was under construction and two of the vehicles took the river option to bypass the roadworks, with some spectacular driving manoeuvres, providing great entertainment for the team members who were observing from a safe distance. Finally, we arrived at Xegar, where we spent two nights and a long walk to aid the process of acclimatisation. We continued on towards Everest Base Camp, where we met up with our Nepalese Sherpas and support team, headed by our excellent and distinguished Sirdar, Sangay B.

The next four days were spent admiring the magnificent west face of Everest, acclimatising, technical training with ropes and crampons, eating and drinking (water). Unfortunately at this stage Lhakpa Ri team member, Jon had to leave the expedition on medical grounds and was sadly missed by all members of the combined teams. Finally on 12 May we started our ascent to Advance Base Camp by trekking to Camp 1, near the start of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The next morning we were awoken by snowfall, which eased off, allowing us to proceed to Camp 2, on the Magic Highway at an altitude of 6,050m. After a good night's rest and better weather, allowing us excellent views of Lhakpa Ri and the north side of Everest, we completed the journey and established our Advance Base Camp at 6,400m. This was home for the next five nights, from where we continued our technical training in preparation for our respective summit days.

Summit day arrived for both teams on Wednesday, 17 May. The North Col team, comprising John, Alan, David, Dene, Geoff and myself, plus our climbing Sherpas, departed camp promptly at 5.00am and made good progress to the glacier. This led to the fixed ropes, which started at an altitude of 6,700m. The team made good and safe progress up the fixed ropes, stopping occasionally for water and food. Finally, at around midday, we approached the Col and the campsites for mountaineers climbing to the summit, crossing a crevasse bridged by a ladder, which gave good sport. We approached our high point of approximately 7,100m. The views were spectacular and it would have been great to continue towards the summit, but clearly it was further than it looked and it wasn't an option this time!

We started our descent at around 1.00pm, down the fixed ropes in rapidly deteriorating weather that thankfully clearly by the time we reached the glacier below the fixed ropes. From there it was a tiring walk back to Advance Base Camp, where we were very well received by our cook and kitchen boys, with plenty of tea and rest.

Meanwhile on Lhakpa Ri, the team were still hard at it. Denise reports£

£The team comprising Eric, Edie, Jeremy, Karyn and myself, led by Mic Rofe and three crack climbing Sherpas, waved goodbye to Venetia and Lucy, who weren't feeling on top form that day, and left camp at 6.30am. We set off across the dazzling white and level expanse of the East Rongbuk Glacier in good spirits and made steady time to the bowl, which leads onto the left- hand slope towards the crevasse section leading towards the final ridge. Whenever the opportunity presented itself, we glanced across to the North Col to spot the progress of our friends. On the gruelling fixed rope section, Eric turned around and descended with a Sherpa. At the top of the fixed rope section at approximately 6,800m, Edie decided to turn around, having achieved his personal altitude record. The rest of us continued, passing Andy's location for the World's highest dinner party in April 2004. We had to content ourselves with nuts, chocolate, dates and water (this sounds almost biblical!). We continued to press on, climbing through deteriorating weather conditions, scrambling up challenging terrain. Jeremy and our remaining Sherpa arrived first at the summit, followed by Mic, Karyn and myself. Miraculously the weather cleared in time to reveal imcomparable views of Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu and numerous other peaks. By now it was 4.30pm and after taking photographs in the afternoon sunshine and congratulating one another, we began the long descent as rapidly as possible. Back on the crevasse section, Mic fell into a deep one, self-rescuing himself like a true professional. Shortly afterwards Karyn also fell in and was rescued by the team.

Unruffled by this excitement, we pressed on down the mountain. The sun fell below the horizon and we were met by the welcome sight of two Sherpas bearing hot lemon and tea. After a deeply satisfying day, we walked back into camp to a warm welcome from Sangay B and the rest of our friends. After a days rest we descended to base camp and subsequently to Lhasa and on to the UK."

Andy Chapman, expedition leader & Denise Prior, Lhakpa Ri team member

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