Trip Reports

Muztag Ata 2008

At c6,000m on Muztag Ata
Trip Report

Written by Leader, September 2008

On the 16th August the Muztag Ata team were at Camp two and with snow a meter deep we were forced to abandon our bid to reach Camp three that day and subsequently we were unable to make a Summit attempt. However despite the disappointment we had a fantastic expedition to Muztag Ata in Chinese Xinjiang.

On the 26th July Bruno, John, David, Richard, Kevin, Eamon, Brett, and Andy flew with Jagged Globe leader Andy Chapman from Heathrow to Islamabad in Pakistan. Nick, Susan and Tim joined the team in Pakistan. In the humid and hot weather of the Pakistan summer we started a four day overland journey along the Karakoram Highway through Northern Pakistan into China Via the Khunjerab Pass (4730m). The hairpin bends and sheer drops reminded us all of the classic 1960`s film "The Italian Job". We stopped for the night at Chilas and Sust in Pakistan and Tashkurgan once we were in China. We were accompanied the whole way by our High Altitude Porter and guide Sharif. At Sust we met up with the other three High Altitude Porters.

Abdullah who was on last years Jagged Globe expedition to Muztag Ata, Shukur who has worked for Jagged Globe on many occasion before and Mohammed Ali who has never work for us before but has substantial high altitude experience with ascents of Nagar Parbat this year and 8,300 m on a Russian K2 expedition last year. It was fare to say that we had a very experienced and talents group of porters to help us on our climb. Also at Sust we had tents and expedition equipment from David Hamilton store in Skardu. David has lead Muztag Ata many times before but this year he is leading expeditions in Mongolia and Pakistan in September.

When we entered China we were searched by the custom and had some of the expedition food confiscated. The food had been air freight out from the UK. For what ever reason the cheeses was not allowed in to China on that day!. Nevertheless we managed to purchase replacement foodstuffs in Tashkurgan.

After staying a Yurt at Lake Karako we walked in to our Base Camp which became home for over two weeks. The expedition equipment was carried in by camels. At Base Camp we were met by our Chinese staff Mr Wang our chef Mr Jin the head man of the camp. The first day At Base Camp we prepared rations and equipment for the first carry to Camp 1 the porters did two carries in two days to Camp 1 with tents food and gas. The group were aloud a leisurely acclimatisation program of only carrying their personal equipment.

While our supper man team of Sharif, Abdullah, Shukur and Ali established Camp 2 and Camp 3 all group members spent the night of Friday the 8th August at Camp 1, on the day of the star of the Beijing Olympic games. On Saturday 9th August the group climbed in six hours to Camp 2 at 6,200m. For many in the team this was the highest that they had slept before, the next day all team members descended to Base Camp for two days rest before starting the ascent. Mean while Abdullah, Shukur and Ali established Camp 3 at 6,900m on Sunday 10th August sadly Sharif was not able to carry to Camp 3 due to illness he was at Base Camp and Thankfully made a very good recovery but he remained at Base Camp as a Base Camp manger for the rest of the expedition he did a suburb job in relaying messages and sorting kit at the end of the expedition.

After two days rest Base Camp listening to the Olympics and generally relaxing and after some heavy snow fall the team set on Wednesday 13th August to camp One in some unpleasant weather. The next day in glorious weather we started the 6 hrs climb to Camp Two. We were met by our three porters for the journey to camp Two, which we completed in fine weather, hopes were high for a good day the next day so we can climb to camp three and make our summit bid on Saturday 16th.

Sadly we awoke to very heavy snow fall, with the hope that it might stop, we waited unfortunately we were stuck at Camp two for the whole day, although this was obviously frustrating it will help in our acclimatisation for the next day ascent...but we were hit buy more bad luck the snow just kept coming eventuality we descend to Camp One which was more than a story in itself heavy rucksacks and very deep soft snow, up to my waist at times meant a long, slow and potential hazardous descent it took a lot out of us top get to Camp One.

By the evening of the Monday 18th we had cleared the mountain of all tents gas food and rubbish and were ready to return to the UK and our respective country's after what has been a fantastic month in China and Pakistan many of the group have now got their eyes on large and high peaks. Full credit goes to the team who all copped well at this altitude and the our friendly staff from China who provided support and food at Base Camp and of course our porters from Pakistan without whom the trip would have struggled. Who knows what we shall attempt next year!

Andy Chapman, Expedition Leader « | Next report »

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