Muztag Ata

Overview

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A non-technical 7,000m peak in the Chinese Pamir

Introduction

The huge dome of Muztag Ata offers mountaineers a chance to climb an exceptionally high mountain by a very straightforward route. Overlooking China's vast Takla Makan Desert, it is a popular objective with teams from continental Europe and is an ideal stepping stone on the way to attempting an 8,000m peak. Jagged Globe has been successful with members reaching the top on seven of our previous expeditions.

The climb is long and tiring but technically easy and the backdrop, across the Pamir, Kun Lun and the Karakoram, is stunning. On the climb you use three camps and load carrying of personal gear and group equipment is required above Camp 1. We recommend that applicants have previous experience on peaks higher than 6,000m.

Join us on Muztag Ata

• A technically easy 7,000m peak, which can be very cold and is good training for an 8,000er or Everest
• Three camps above base camp, the highest being at 6,800m
• Team members share in the load carrying above Camp 1
• Approach via Kyrgyzstan and the Torugart Pass then quick access to base camp from Kashgar
• Visit Kashgar and its many bazaars
• Jagged Globe expedition leader
• 10 expeditions since 1989

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Tailor-made option

We can organise this expedition on a ‘tailor-made’ private basis for groups of friends, families, clubs, charities or any other group. Depending on your mountaineering experience, you may want a Jagged Globe leader or go ‘self-led’ with the assistance of local guides. The cost of going private can be surprisingly reasonable, particularly if you take the self-led option. Please contact us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates. We will then send you a quote, with no obligation.

Experience Required

Muztag Ata is a technically straightforward mountain, but one which requires stamina and determination to cope with long arduous days. Those wishing to join the expedition and have a good chance of success should have:

• A high level of fitness gained from a regular programme of exercise
• Experience of expeditions to peaks higher than 6,000m in the Greater Ranges
• Experience of camping on snow and ice and the use of small stoves
• Scottish Grade II/Alpine PD mountaineering experience

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please phone +44 (0)114 276 3322 or contact us.

Know Before You Go

Jagged Globe supports the British Foreign & Commonwealth Office (FCO) ‘Know Before You Go’ campaign. We recommend that you read the FCO Travel Advice for China on the FCO Website.

What the price includes

• Economy class return airfares from the UK (unless joining in-country.)
• UK airport taxes.
• 3 nights' good standard hotel accommodation in Bishkek on a twin-sharing, bed and breakfast basis.
• 3 nights' good standard hotel accommodation in Kashgar on a twin-sharing, full board basis.
• 23 nights' full board accommodation in tents on a twin-sharing basis.
• All road transport by private vehicles.
• Porterage of group equipment to Camp 1.
• All costs for Jagged Globe leader and local guide.
• Jagged Globe kitbag or lightweight fleece.

What the price does not include

• Visa fees.
• Overseas airports taxes not paid in advance through the international airline ticket.
• Bar bills and laundry.
• Travel insurance.
• Lunch and evening meals in Bishkek.
• Porterage above Camp 1.
• Excess baggage fees charged by airlines.
• Optional trips.
• Tips.

Tailor-made option

We can organise this expedition on a ‘tailor-made’ private basis for groups of friends, families, clubs, charities or any other group. Depending on your mountaineering experience, you may want a Jagged Globe leader or go ‘self-led’ with the assistance of local guides. The cost of going private can be surprisingly reasonable, particularly if you take the self-led option. Please contact us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates. We will then send you a quote, with no obligation.

Insurance

You will need a travel insurance policy that caters for the activities you will undertake on your trip with Jagged Globe. It is a requirement of our booking conditions that you have such a policy. For a list of insurers who specialise in mountaineering, trekking and skiing, please see our Travel Insurance page »

Itinerary

Here is an outline itinerary for this trip. A more detailed day-to-day itinerary is available as a downloadable PDF »

Outline Itinerary

Day 1 - 2:	Fly London to Bishkek Overnight hotel.
Day 3 - 4:	Drive to Kashgar Cross the 3,752m Torugart Pass - 'the most exiting route into Central Asia' - to Kashgar. Overnight hotel.
Day 5:	Rest day in Kashgar Overnight hotel.
Day 6:	Drive to Lake Karakol (3,600m) Stunning views of the mountain from Lake Karakol. You spend the night in either "yurts" or tents on the shore of the turquoise waters of the lake.
Day 7:	Trek to base camp (4,450m) A short drive to the roadhead at Subashi (3,850m). It is a 3-4 hour walk to base camp with camels carrying the team's equipment. Overnight camp.
Day 8 - 25:	Ascent of Muztag Ata You have up to 17 days to climb Muztag Ata. During this time you can expect to make 3-4 trips to Camp 1 (5,400m), 2-3 trips to Camp 2 (6,100m) plus 1-2 trips to Camp 3 (6,800m) and a summit bid. You need to be sufficiently fit and determined to put in this amount of work if you want to have a good chance of summit success.
Day 26:	Return to Kashgar Overnight hotel.
Day 27:	Drive to Tash Rabat Return journey over the Torugart Pass.
Day 28:	Drive Tash Rabat to Bishkek Overnight hotel.
Day 29:	At leisure in Bishkek Overnight hotel.
Day 30:	Fly Bishkek to London

PLEASE NOTE:The above itinerary is intended as a guideline only. While we will make every effort to adhere to it, changes may be forced for reasons beyond our control. When traveling to remote locations such as this, a flexible approach from all members is much appreciated.

Photos & Videos

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• Muztag Ata ski

Reports & Reviews

First Expedition: June 1989
Total: 10 trips

Have you been on this trip? If you'd like to contribute a trip report then we'll post it up on the site.

Team Member Reviews

• “Read Mark Horrell's report from our 2007 Muztag Ata expedition” Muztag Ata 2007

Leader Reports

• Muztag Ata 2008
  “On the 16th August the Muztag Ata team were at Camp two and with snow a meter deep we were forced to abandon our bid to reach Camp three that day and subsequently we were unable to make a Summit attempt. However despite the...”
  report added 01/Sep/08
• Muztag Ata - 28 Jul to 26 Aug '07
  “Five climbers and two Sherpas reached the 7,546m summit at 14.00 hrs local time on Saturday 18 August 2007, ensuring a successful outcome to the ninth Jagged Globe expedition to Muztag Ata in Chinese Xinjiang. This mountain is...”
  report added 28/Aug/07
• Muztag Ata 2006
  “Whilst Muztag Ata is probably the least technical 7,500m peak in the world it shouldn’t be thought of as an ‘easy’ ascent. The sheer graft and logistics of transporting enough food, fuel and tents up the mountain to allow...”
  report added 29/Aug/06
• Muztag Ata 2003
  “Travel difficulties in Central Asia and the SARS problem in China have substantially reduced the number of foreign tourists travelling to Western China this year. However there were over 150 European climbers attempting 7,546m...”
  report added 12/Oct/03
• Muztag Ata 2001
  “Out of the six climbers, only Ben Fender and leader Peter Thompson reached the summit on August 17 on this years Jagged Globe expedition to Muztag Ata (7,546m). After the usual approach from Pakistan along the Karakoram Highway...”
  report added 04/Sep/01
• 1 more report »

• Muztag Ata 2000
  “Rising high above the Takla Makan desert, Muztag Ata attracted a full Jagged Globe team this year, with both skiers and climbers who tackled the peak on foot. It was a difficult expedition for many. In total, 4 members reached the...”
  report added 11/Dec/00