Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro Lemosho Glades- 31 Aug to 9 Sep '13

Uhuru - New Sign
Trip Report

Written by Leader George Manley, September 2013

Day 1. I met Jackie at Amsterdam airport along with Georgina, and her Jagged Globe team at the gate. I waited for Rachel briefly at the gate, then checking with airport staff, they informed me Rachel had been fast tracked on board because of her tight transfer time. During the flight we all got acquainted and briefly spoke of arrangements upon arrival.

After a hassle free and pleasant flight, we arrived at Kilimanjaro airport slightly ahead of schedule, with all our baggage arriving, both teams were picked up and we reached the Key’s Hotel in good time, to a friendly reception with a welcoming drink and meal. Georgina and myself agreed to conduct a joint briefing about the following couple of days arrangements, what to expect, which kit to bring and leave behind, and a little about Altitude.

Day 2. Everyone was up early and ready, during breakfast we discussed the day ahead and afterwards Georgina and myself conducted a joint kit check with everyone while kit bags were being weighed. Once spare kit was deposited in storage and the trucks loaded, we were on our way and our big adventure was underway. After a dusty drive we arrived at Londorossi gate to sign in and see our first distant views of Kilimanjaro. Shortly after further weighing of the porter’s loads we experienced a 45min off road driving adventure, through a deeply rutted jungle/forest track, that produced some exciting moments and great driving skills, particularly when we met on-coming traffic on this narrow single truck width track. Eventually reaching our start point, we were now truly underway for our 8 day exciting adventure in the African wilderness. A relaxing pace was set by the guides, entering the through the forest provided great opportunities to see Blue and Colobus Monkeys in the high Macaranga trees. Arriving at Big Tree Camp was welcomed; still feeling slightly jet-lagged, food and a good night’s sleep would be just the ticket. After a short briefing about Day 3 we were soon in our tents.

Day 3. After a good night’s sleep, replenished water supplies and a good breakfast, it was a chilly start to the trekking, but soon warmed up. We were well organised and soon on the move. A tough day lay ahead with around 700m of height gain, a good pace was set, we were all happy with this, understanding the importance of maintaining this pace from the start and how it would pay dividends later. The forest soon became amazingly dense with tree mosses or old man’s beard dripping off every branch of the Macaranga and Juniper trees. As we were gaining height, we soon left the Forest zone and entered the Heathland/moorland zone of giant heathers and many stunning flowers. Without the cover of the forest canopy, we were exposed to the hot sun so our lunch stop on an airy ridge with outstanding views all around was very welcome. After lunch we were happy to discover the ridge led directly to Shira Camp One. Arriving in good time, we had the chance to view Kilimanjaro for the first time and see the next couple of days trekking. It was a remarkable, cold finish to the day with a fantastic display of the heavens above with the Milky Way appearing in all its outstanding glory.

Day 4. A slightly later start with an easier day’s trekking ahead and with a stunning day dawning, we were ready to go quite quickly. Yesterday Rachel had started to develop a couple of blister hotspots, but with immediate attention, she was able to manage them very well. The trek across the heath and moorland of the Shira Plateau was very pleasant, walking through mud flats passing weird, oversized boulders with a ladder up the side of one to gain access. We crossed the dried up Simba river bed, where Robson reliably informed us many wild animals come drink when the river is in flood. We then soon passed the 4x4 track that runs almost all the way the Shira Camp two and then we passed the Simba cave’s where Robson mentioned porters used to sleep. Although we were increasing our altitude, a height gain of 392m, none of us showed any signs of AMS, we were in very good shape. It was not long before we reached the welcome sight of Shira Camp Two, we were all ready for lunch. After lunch and a rest, we walked a short section of the next day’s trek, gaining around 200m of height for acclimatization.

The excitement of the evening was a direct attack from a Dust Devil upon the mess tent while we were inside. It produced a complete blackout and overwhelmed the entire mess tent covering everything, including us in Shira Plateau dust. Luckily we had finished dinner and were just going through a briefing regarding the next day’s trekking!

Day 5. We left by 8.30am for a tough day ahead. Today we would gain a height of 4655m at the Lava Tower before dropping down Barranco Camp at 3965m. However, the trail started fairly gently and gradually we found ourselves leaving the land of heather for the landscape of a high barren highland desert; a magnificent fictional land of scattered lichen covered boulders where we found shiny black obsidian rock. This landscape became very much more dramatic as we drew ever closer the Lava tower and Kilimanjaro. Unfortunately the day was tainted with a harsh cold wind which increased its speed as we reached the Lava Tower. Tantalising glimpses of our final objective were offered us through swirling mist that immersed Kilimanjaro and we gratefully accepted the shelter the tower provided us from the wind to enjoy lunch. From the Lava Tower we continued, accompanied by a few other groups, with Kilimanjaro and the Western Breach route looming overhead. We eventually dropped steeply over a ridge, crossing a stream where we encountered many Giant Groundsel and Lobelia‘s and also saw tomorrow's route; the famous Barranco wall. We then, finally and wonderfully, descended into the charming Barranco valley and entered Barranco camp site. Upon reaching the Barranco camp site, it was wonderful that some of us were able to contact loved ones back home. During dinner we discussed the next day’s trekking before we all retired for a good night sleep.

Day 6. A good day today, a good night sleep, and all were feeling a lot more confident having reached a giddy height of 4600m yesterday and a slightly later start to avoid the crowds made all the difference. The sight of huge numbers of porters and trekkers on the Barranco wall was impressive. Our climb through the near-vertical scramble was both exciting and exhilarating. A little scary moment was when we witnessed a porter drop a tent which bounced down the wall, coming to a rest in amongst the giant Groundsel that inhabit the slopes. Fortunately the porter was able to retrieve the tent. This did serve as a reminder of how steep the Barranco Wall is, although technically easy, great care is needed. A few OMGs and few small exposed rock steps later, we made it to the top of the Barranco Wall reasonably quickly and with relative ease; a great team effort. Here we paused to enjoy the great views, take photos and chat with other trekkers. The rest of the trek to Karanga Camp was pretty straight forward, except with a nasty sting in its tail! After crossing a series of mini valleys you reach the lusher slopes of the Karanga Valley with a steep dusty descent. The sting being a steep switchback ascent into the camp site. After 30 mins we reached our destination; a rather windswept site, arriving in cloud cover. It was cold and we were rather grateful for an amazing lunch which included pasta omelettes. It was to our great pleasure that the clouds cleared to reveal a superb view of Kilimanjaro and the south face. Kilimanjaro looked very close now and we were all acclimatising so well, which encouraged us all and made us all feel much more confident about the approaching summit day.

Day 7. A fairly easy, if not busy route we left Karanga camp with many porters giving everyone a fanfare of traditional Swahili songs. We reached Barafu camp within 3hrs, this was very welcome and enabled us to discuss our preparations over lunch. Afterwards to incredible views of Kilimanjaro and glimpses of the route to the summit, we went through a final briefing regarding appropriate kit to be carried, considering the cold conditions we may encounter during the night time hours and on the Summit.

We were all very pleased with how well we had all been acclimatising, there were no signs or symptoms of AMS among us. Rachel had managed her blisters brilliantly and with additional spare kit from me, Jackie, Rachel, myself and the guides were ready for Midnight.

SUMMIT DAY. After a 4 hour fragmented sleep, the big day had arrived, and what a day it was going to be! Long, cold, exhausting, emotional, but above all, an exhilarating climb with a grandeur and a magnificence, once we realised the highest point of all Africa.

We were up at 11.30pm and were quick and efficient getting ready. After a light breakfast we were on our way, under a beautifully clear midnight sky accompanied by multitudes of head torches in front of us revealing the impossibly long steep path we were yet to ascend. We made steady progress for the first few hours, passing over rock slabs which phased us a little in the inky blackness, something you would think nothing of during daylight hours. Continuing, the slope eased, but it was not long before we reached the steep rocky, scree laden slopes and the relentless series of switchbacks that seem to go on forever. The next 2/3 hours passed fairly quickly, but by 4am, the temperature had lowered and with a constant cold wind the climb began to get really tough. We were wrapped in everything that could give us warmth, yet it seems to take many layers of clothes to stop such a penetrating cold getting into your skin, chilling your bones and numbing your very core.

All of us were coping absolutely amazingly well, although I continually reminded all of us to drink and refuel. At around 4.30am, the expression “All I want to see is daylight” summed up how demanding it is to reach the highest point in Africa. Shortly after, at around 5am I decided the group shelter should be used and a proper break was due. To eat, drink and rewarm was just what the doctor ordered. Before getting in the group shelter, I had noticed that there was a faint hint of light on the horizon, 20mins in the group shelter paid dividends. When we emerged, the dawn had truly started with the sun was soon appearing over the horizon. With morale now boosted, and all of us feeling a lot better and pleased with the light of the new day enabling us to see, Stella Point came into view although it still seemed an unreasonable distance away.

It took a further 4 hours of relentless uphill. There was nothing we could do, but keep going. This was as tough as it gets, although we were coping extremely well with the altitude, the continuing increase height was beginning to tell and we had slowed to a snails pace. Although we all stopped regularly, Jackie decided to stop, feeling light headed and slightly nauseous. A paracetamol and anti-nausea medication helped immensely and we were able to continue. Rachel was coping remarkably well and was in good shape, walking very slowly, but with a determination that was amazing. The final stretch, an agonizing, tear inducing slope of sheer shale and gravel that really makes you earn your prize, step by step, using no more energy than you need to, you finally and agonisingly reach the first prize Stella Point (5752m) where we were rewarded with stunning views and an exceptionally well earned break to refuel and catch our breath.

After a short while here, we continued along the crater rim on easier, flatter ground moving very slowly, we were now on the final stretch to Uhuru Peak. An hour later after many pauses we finally staggered, exhausted and very emotional with many tears, we had made it, to the highest point in Africa, UHURU PEAK 5895m. After opening messages from loved ones and wishing loved ones were with us, who could not possibly be there, and taking photos, an hour later we started the long, relentless slog down. It was hard going at first, but steadily we improved as we descended. At around 5000m, some of us slowed down considerably, when guides Frank and Robson provided assistance back to Barafu camp, this was gratefully received. However, we were all pretty knackered and totally worn-out when we reached Barafu camp, the much needed rest and food was an absolute must. After being fed and watered, we were surprisingly rejuvenated and the walk down to Millennium camp although tiring, was actually a pleasure. Upon reaching Millennium camp we received a great welcome and sat down to a banquet fit for kings.

After dinner we gathered all the porters, cooks and guides together to express our thanks for their outstanding support and the amazing job they had done throughout the past 8 days. Rachel, Jackie and myself sang a variation with different words of the Kilimanjaro song to thank everyone. The porters were delighted we sang to them and then they sang to us. After this we distributed their richly deserved tips which we all agreed they had earned many times over. Finally we staggered to bed, sleep came effortlessly. It had been an extraordinarily and very long day.

Day 9. We were all up early, a 6.30am start was agreed to try and beat the rush at Mweka gate and perhaps to get back to the Keys hotel in a good time. The trek down was very pleasant, if not slightly longer than anticipated. Passing back through the heathland and forest zones, we reached Mweka Gate at around midday to applause and cheering from tourists and porters alike. After signing out, many thank yous, smiles and handshakes, we soon found ourselves back at the Key’s hotel to welcoming showers and a good lunch and drinks by the swimming pool.

Frank and Robson joined us for the late lunch and a drink where certificates were presented, photos taken and finally farewells were made. It was all over far too soon and we had to leave for the airport to catch our flights for our long journey home. « | »

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