Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - Lemosho Glades 7 to 16 Sep '13

7 September Kilimanjaro team on the summit

Written by Leader Becky Coles, September 2013

Landing after dark at Kilimanjaro Airport we were yet to see the mountain that the airport was named after. At dawn it was cloudy and, rejuvenated after a hearty breakfast at the Keys Hotel, we set off to the park gate still without seeing what we had committed to climb.

It was a bumpy ride by 4x4s to the Londorossi Gate where porters were assembled, bags were weighed and loads organised. Kassim, our head guide, effortlessly coordinated our 35 strong local team as well as answering the two dozen questions we had.

After signing in at the park gate we climbed back into the 4x4s where some skilful driving took up to the trail head. Now deep in the forest, shaded from the equatorial sun, we took our first plodding steps. Black and white colobus monkeys, whooped and whistled high in the trees as we passed them. Within 3 hours we had reached our first camp, on the edge of the forest, where the sounds of the forest grew louder as the night drew in.

Woken by the dawn chorus and after a 3 course breakfast we continued ascending. The trees of the forest gave way to a 'forest' of giant heather. By lunch time the heather was dwarfed to be more recognisable. A few hours later we arrived at Shira One Camp. We got glimpses of upper slopes of Kilimanjaro through the clouds but it wasn't until dusk that the cloud lifted dramatically revealing the black basalt slopes streaked with the white ice of glaciers and snow patches.

Shira One Camp is located in a wide, dusty bowl which is in the centre of an ancient volcano, far older than the main crater of Kilimanjaro. The following day's walk to take in Shira Cathedral, a small peak a couple of hours from the camp, revealed this peak to be part of the ancient crater rim and enabled views to Mt Meru.

So far the trek had been leisurely and we had arrived in camp the previous couple of days early in the afternoon. Today the day's trek involved more of the challenge. A steady ascent would take us to the Lava Tower at 4,640m before descending to Baranco Camp at 3,900m. A long day but great for acclimatisation, which is difficult to incorporate on the world's highest free standing mountain. The team easily rose to this challenge and, despite the afternoon rain, walked into camp that evening looking strong. The benefit of 'climbing high, sleeping low' was evident that night with the team having the best night's sleep so far on the trip. Tony and Pete also improved their night having worked out that their thermarests needed to be blown up!

The Baranco Wall soars above the camp, looking impenetrable. In the morning a steady stream of porters and climbers dotted the face indicating the route. We enjoyed the sunny morning whilst watching the onward march of colourful ant-like figures on the wall. Once the flow of people had ebbed we set our ourselves. There was no hurry this morning as we were to camp at Karanga, just a few hours away. After 20 minutes of easy scrambling the angle of the wall relented and we could plod to the top. It began raining again on our descent through the Giant groundsel and lobelia plants into camp.

The following day the weather was clear enabling views from the savannah to the summit. An easy trail lead to the highest camp we would stay at, Barafu, and complete our route that flanked the southern slopes of the mountain. There was only one way to go now; straight up!

That afternoon we prepared for summit day, carefully packing only the essentials for the day. Fortified with porridge we set out at 1am for the summit. The weather was clear and not too cold although a brisk wind blow from the plains. Head torches ahead of us blended into the starry night sky as we concentrated in putting one foot in front of the other. Finally, the horizon turned orange with the promise of the sun's warming rays. Suddenly light burst through and we rested before the final steep section to Stella Point on the crater rim.

Having made it to Stella Point the team were assured of summit success. A gentle incline around the crater rim lead the way to Uhuru Peak and the roof of Africa where a complete Team Jagged Globe celebrate a 100% summit success. Brian's whisky secured the altitude headache and with photos taken we quickly descended back to Barafu where a well deserved lunch was had before packing up and continuing the descent to Millennium camp.

That evening the whisky was enjoyed much more than on the summit, not that alcohol was needed to ensure a good night's sleep. The following morning was the team's final day and we rapidly reversed the climate zones finishing to the sounds of the colobus and blue monkeys crashing through the trees at the Mweka Gate. Here our local team assembled for goodbyes (and tips) and sung us a final song.

Back at the Key's Hotel we had a much needed shower and large lunch. Our guides joined us for lunch and Allen was convinced that he had put on weight during the trip. A couple of Kilimanjaro beers refreshed us before we had to get to the airport, jealously leaving Peter and Andrea to enjoy their safari.

Becky Coles, Trek Leader

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