Trip Reports

Mera and Island Peak - 14 Oct to 12 Nov '16

Written by Leader Ed Chard, November 2016

'It's very cold outside' - Mark had just left the tent for a few seconds. 'That's often the case at nearly 6,000m' I said. I was also guessing around minus fifteen, it turned out to be more like minus eighteen an hour later! It was late October and we were at Mera Peak High Camp about to climb to the summit with ten other folk. Six hours of work lay ahead and some of the best views in the Nepali Himalaya. We had spent twelve days getting to this point in near perfect weather. We had slept for a few hours and were now ready to leave. Multiple layers of primaloft and down kept out most of the cold, but activity soon had the blood pumping around our bodies.

At nearly 6,500m, Mera Peak was only the first of three objectives on our trip. After our ascent we descended into the very remote Honku Valley. We had a formidable pass to cross three days later in the shape of the Ampthu Lapsa, at over 5,700m it was no small task, particularly with twelve climbers, fourteen porters and seven kitchen team. Ropes needed to be fixed for both the the ascent and the near vertical descent of the other side. Four hundred metres of rope, ten abseils and eight hours later the team were stood looking back at a memorable day's mountaineering. It was cold and getting dark, we needed to move. Three hours later and we were in the warmth of the mess tent with tea, noodle soup and prawn crackers.

The good weather was holding, so we made the most of it by getting straight over to Island Peak, our next objective. Some weary bodies needed a rest but some had the energy to climb back to 6,100m and get great views down the Khumbu Valley. After eight days of being over 5,000m and twenty three days on expedition, folk were ready to get back to lower altitudes. Three days later we were back at Lukla Airport and looking forward to showers and a night in a bed!

Well done to all the team, Western and Eastern, for a top trip. Thanks for the memories. See you next time.

Ed Chard, Expedition Leader

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