Trip Reports

Learning new skills on Mera and Island Peaks

Written by Leader Tony Halliwell, December 2017

You’re never too old to learn. I hadn’t played “Twos and Threes” before. It’s a bit like “Uno” and it became our card game of choice whilst sitting comfortably (comfortably? In sub-zero temperatures?) in the heated dining areas of tea houses where we ate during our tented expedition to climb Mera Peak, cross the Amphu Lhapsa and then climb Island Peak, before ambling back down the Khumbu Valley. I hadn’t played dominoes for ages either, so thanks to Derrick, Graham and Mark for re-introducing me.

For me, this is one of the great joys of the slow, other worldly way of progressing and acclimatising through the Himalayas. You get a great group of people who are a pleasure to be with, you meander upwards in order to acclimatise well and, stripped of access to TV, video or whatever, you start to engage in a few old-fashioned pastimes like card games and dominoes, all made possible because, whilst we slept in tents (most often in the grounds of a tea house) we often ate and then drank endless cups of tea in dining rooms which were comfortably warm, provided that you’re willing to contribute a couple of dollars to the cost of the firewood. The various high camps (below both of the peaks and below the Amphu Lhapsa pass) were the exceptions and provide the remote expedition feel.

This isn’t to say that Mera and Island Peak is a soft touch expedition. Mera is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. Whilst not technically difficult, it requires a lot of stamina and is renowned for being cold, windy or both. With good preparation and making sure you have the right kit it is however a justifiably popular objective. (The views from the high camp have just got to be unrivalled by any other 6,000m peak in the Himalayas.) The section of this trip from Khare to Mera summit, down into the Hongu Valley and then up and over the Amphu Lhapsa also represents a sustained period of time not dropping below 5,000m.

But if you just call this trip “Mera and Island Peak” you also miss out a major highlight. Many folk come back raving about the crossing of the Amphu Lhapsa. At 5,800m, this col could never be included in your list of “summits”, but it is an exhilarating experience and is probably the most technical part of the trip. The route to its top changes over the years, but always represents a challenge. Descent into the Khumbu involves an exciting abseil – about 200 metres worth at least.

For us, once over and into the Khumbu, there was a chance for a real rest day at the picturesque Dolban camping spot – a “do nothing” day which was in contrast to some of the other “skills days” that are sometimes called “rest days” (so, to be sung to the tune of We’re Having a Heatwave – “We’re having a rest day, a Nepali rest day. It isn’t a rest day, it’s just a small test day. Then we certainly can, can can.)

After this well-deserved rest, and for those whose bodies were still willing, there is the very different mountain experience of climbing Island Peak; lower than Mera, but more technical and – since last year – involving the excitement of belayed crossing of a crevasse on 3 ladders all strapped together; very Western Cwm Icefall-ish.

A big thank you to everyone who was on this very special trip. The perfect coming-together of a great group of people in a great location.

Tony Halliwell

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