Trip Reports

Khumbu Climber - 9 Oct to 7 Nov '05

Written by Team Member Nigel Monaghan, November 2005

Khumbu Climber 9th October – 6th November 2005 After "technical difficulties" with our Qatar Airways flight from Heathrow, we finally arrive in Kathmandu 24 hours later than expected. However, any lingering frustrations about the delay are expelled by the welcome we receive at the Summit Hotel; a great place to start the trip (as long as you don’t get too used to the obvious comforts), and a nice thought to know that you'll be returning here just under four weeks later.

The next day, with the madness that is Kathmandu airport successfully navigated, we take the short but spectacular flight to Lukla where we meet our Sherpa team and once our kit was assembled, we head off up the Khumbu Valley.

The first few days are at a steady pace as the team gets acclimatised. After a couple of days we arrive at Namche Bazaar with its fantastic bakeries, Internet connection and outdoor shops, and enjoy Danish pastries, check email, and make last minute kit purchases before the climbing starts.

From Namche the trail is less congested and the pace brisker as we make our way to Tengboche. Whilst we’d had an early sight of a distant Everest on Day Two, from Tengboche the view of Everest is spectacular; as is the view of our other constant companion, Ama Dablam.

To our first objective – Pokalde. From base camp to high camp, and an early start (around 3:30am) on summit day. Only a dusting of snow on the peak so no need to fix crampons, although we tread carefully on a few icy patches. Exposed at the top, but with a fixed line set by Dowa and Tsering the whole team successfully make it to the summit.

And so to Island Peak. However, before reaching base camp, some overnight snow sees us spend an unscheduled 24 hours at Chukhung. (This is when it’s useful to make sure that you’ve packed some reading material!) After a day of drinking tea and eating biscuits we make our way to a busy Island Peak base camp for our summit attempt. Unfortunately, I have to sit this one out with a (thankfully shortlived) stomach bug - great timing! – spending a frustrating time at base camp with the equally disappointed Bob who’s suffering from a nasty ‘Khumbu cough’. However, all the remaining members of the team successfully return to base camp with a second summit under their belts.

Leaving Island Peak for our third and final objective, we re-trace our steps through a spectacular valley in the shadow of the towering Lhotse before heading to Lobuche base camp. In stark contrast to the congested Island Peak, there’s only one other (Polish) team here. However, it must have been a lot busier quite recently since, disappointingly, it’s a horribly dirty camp site.

The next day we make our way to high camp and prepare for our final summit. A 2:30am start on a clear night and we make our way up a rocky approach before reaching the snow line. Unfortunately, a disappointed Bob turns back here with Tania whilst the rest of the team fix crampons and head towards the summit. With the sun rising behind a distant Makalu, the whole landscape is aglow as we wait for Tsering and Dowa to fix ropes up the steepening snow slope. Exactly six hours after leaving base camp, the whole team summits and takes in the stunning views of Everest and Lhotse.

A further six hours later we arrive at the camp site at Dzonghla and reflect on what for most people has been the highlight of the trip. Whilst not technically difficult, Lobuche gives you a ‘big mountain’ experience, and in a truly spectacular location.

No time to rest though and the next day we cross the Cho La pass. There’s snow here, although no need for crampons and axes, and a steep, rocky descent down the other side. And as we descend from the pass, the mood of the team seems to lighten with the realisation that the really hard work is over. The mood lightens even further when we arrive at the guest house in Gokyo. This is luxury and we spend the afternoon washing clothes, taking a hot shower and enjoying the warm sunshine.

The next day, we make our way to the top of Gokyo Ri to enjoy a fantastic Himalayan panorama, taking in views of Cho Oyu, Everest and Nuptse. From the top of the hill looking down on Gokyo we can clearly make out the path which will see us turn for home, and after a rapid descent and a brief tea stop, we’re on our way back towards Lukla.

Before we get there, however, we enjoy some rest time in Namche, including an evening of pool, beer and dancing in a local club, followed by a lazy day eating pastries and chocolate cake. The following day we enjoy an evening of (more) dancing in Phakding with our Sherpa team before the final leg to Lukla. Here we say a big ‘thank you and good bye’ to our Sirdar, Dowa, and the team and make the return flight to Kathmandu.

Back to the wonderful Summit Hotel where we enjoy the warmer weather and take time to shop for gifts and souvenirs in the bustling Thamel. A final meal at a great Thai restaurant and the next day it’s time to head to the airport and home.

All-in-all, this was a great trip with a great team, which owed a lot to the leadership of Tania (Noakes) and the support of a highly professional Sherpa team. Khumbu Climber is an action-packed experience which offers fantastic value for money. Highly recommended! « Previous report | Next report »

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